I recently met a lovely couple and their son. They came to Portugal for a two-week exploratory visit. Their two-week visit was extended and significantly more expensive because of one of the exploratory visit challenges I’ll write about below.
#1 -Traveling in the Time of Covid
The first challenge relates to traveling anywhere right now. Traveling in the time of covid is tricky. Do I need to be tested? What kind of test? 72 hours from when I board the plane or land? Do I need to quarantine? Will my proof of covid vaccination make any difference? Will hotels require a covid test?
I am NOT going to answer those questions here. Why? Because the rules often change and are likely to change between the time I write this and someone reads it. Instead, let me offer some advice: DO NOT RELY ON SOMETHING YOU READ ON FACEBOOK or SOMEBODY’S BLOG. Consult your home country’s “state department” (here is the U.S. embassy in Portugal) website and Portugal’s website. Also, consult the covid information found on your airline’s website. Finally, even having done that, accept that you still might hit a speedbump along the way.
Permit me to share the story of the reader I mentioned above. She contacted me to ask if she could spend a few hours with Denise and me during her travels. As Cascais was on her list of places to visit, we scheduled an afternoon and dinner with her, her wife, and her son. The dinner never happened! Instead, they spent the evening in their hotel room trying to connect with an online company that would certify their self-administered covid test. This process, recommended by her airline, had worked flawlessly the day before she left the States. But for whatever reason (technical issues, increased usage, whatever) it continued to crash the night before they left. I have since learned that there is a testing facility at Lisbon airport, but at the time all I could recommend was the testing at CUF the private hospital nearby. Long story short, two more nights in a hotel and a very expensive change of flights later…they returned to the U.S.
#2 - Buses and Trains Make Travel Easier
The second recommendation comes from talking to many recent American visitors at the end of their visit. Unfortunately, they land at an airport and immediately rent a car. Yes, I realize that is how you vacation in the U.S. but you are in Europe now. Take advantage of Portugal’s excellent public transportation and private bus systems. If you land in Porto (and plan to spend time in the city) you don’t need a car. After 3 or 4 days you want to visit Aveiro… great take the train for €3,50. It leaves just about every hour and will take less than 90 minutes. While in Aveiro rent a bike for €6/day or if that is not an option, utilize Uber or Bolt if you want to leave the city. After 2 days you decide to hop over to Coimbra…again, take the train. Easy…peasy..€5,35 for one hour of carefree travel.
You decide it is time to visit Lisbon. While a little pricier, €52 will book the high-speed train from Coimbra to Lisbon. It leaves at least 4 times a day and will provide a scenic tour of the countryside in under 2 hours. Too pricey for you, check out Flixbus … you could score a seat for as little as €4,99.
While in Lisbon you do not need or want a car!!! Driving is tricky or not possible in parts of the city (Alfama), parking is expensive and you will miss half the sites if you have to concentrate on driving anyway. Jeez, people, you are in Europe, not Arkansas.
Okay, it is time to go south. You have two choices.
Take an inexpensive bus or train from Lisbon to Faro, then rent a car; or
Rent a car so you can drive down the coast to Sagres and then east across the Algarve.
In my humble opinion…while there is a regional (i.e. slow) train that travels across the southern coast…most Americans will opt for a car. That’s okay…remember we just bought a car expecting to move south someday. But after taking in the Algarve return the car to Lisbon airport before you fly out. Last piece of advice, when you rent the car spring for the €3-5 to rent a toll transponder. Trust me, you will thank me.
#3 - Don’t Bother the Realtors
Finally, I have been asked by several readers to recommend a realtor. I used to do this. But have stopped. Why? Because too often it was being asked by people that were just coming for an exploratory visit. Many of these people were looking for short-term rentals required by the D7 process. That is why someone invented VRBO and Airbnb.
It doesn’t make any sense to talk with a realtor during an exploratory visit. Before talking to an agent you should:
Know where you want to live;
Exactly when you are arriving; and
Be able to sign at least a one-year agreement.
I was in sales, and while I was paid a very livable salary about half of my total compensation was commissions. Real estate agents are 100% commission. So permit me to be blunt. Real estate agents are not tour guides! And given the way Portugal real estate commissions are handled it just makes sense to wait!
Hey, I get it. You are excited about your potential new home. You want to see what an apartment or home will be like. You also have a very legitimate need to know what you can afford. Instead of bugging an agent before you have a definitive date (not more than 90 days away) rely on the web. As cumbersome and flawed as these sites are they will at least give you a ballpark. Perhaps the range for rent in a town is €800-1500/month. You know you. If you haven’t lived in the biggest house in the best neighborhood…you can use the lower end of the scale. Otherwise, use the higher end of the scale. If you are on an exploratory visit, you simply need to know what areas you can afford.
So there you have it. I realize today’s post was a bit longer than most. And I’m sorry if I sounded cranky. However, I communicate with a lot of readers by email, Zoom, or WhatsApp. After a visit, I often hear, “Boy I wasted a lot of money and hated having a car.” I have also heard from my favorite real estate agent, “They had no idea what month they were arriving…I cannot commit that the apartment they liked will even be available then.” Now to be fair, Elizabeth did say she would be willing to show exploratory visitors properties as they might contact her when they were ready to move to Portugal. But she is too nice….
Having said that, if you are planning a trip…don’t hesitate to contact me. I may not be as nice as Elizabeth but I love talking with and meeting my readers. Frankly, it is the best part of this “job”!
(⊙_⊙) did I hear trip planning advise!! be careful what you ask for! lol
Excellent information and not cranky at all. Realistic and informative. Basically, don't waste other people's time just because you are on vacation or whatever. The transportation is one of the things I really miss about living in Europe. I truly enjoy the options there.