Okay, I admit it. I created an inflammatory title for this post in hopes that more people would read it. Yep, I have succumbed to being a clickbait chick. But while I don’t hate Portuguese food some of my readers do. In fact, quite a few suggested I write about this topic. So today I will tell you what I really think.
English Food Critic
In doing research for this post, yes I actually do research before I write…I found this headline in The Portugal News:
Times food critic under fire for panning Portuguese cuisine
It seems the critic was writing about his experience at a Portuguese restaurant that had opened in London, as well as childhood memories from summer holidays in the Algarve1 in the mid-70s’. His article included zingers such as:
“…the cuisine of Portugal is, at best, what English cooking would be if we had better weather.”
“I’ve been to Portugal dozens of times and I have never had a good meal there. But then you don’t go to Portugal for the food, do you? You go for … Hang on, why do you go to Portugal?”
“…the (Portuguese-English) alliance is one based not on political expedience but a mutual love of soggy cod, white bread, overcooked potatoes, plain cheese, sweet wine and cold custard.”
As my increasing waistline can attest, I cannot agree with his comments on bread, potatoes, or wine. All three are truly top-notch…and very cheap! However it can be near impossible to find a russet potato here, and it is difficult for me to distinguish one Portuguese cheese from another (other than by texture).
Be Thankful You Are Not a Vegan
But it can be difficult to be a vegetarian in Portugal, and as the title above suggests it is even more difficult to be vegan. I find this odd for two reasons. First, the fruits and vegetables found in supermarkets, local mercados, and roadside stands are top-notch! You may recall our first haul from the Cascais Mercado pictured above. Second, is the fact that Portugal was the first European country to make it illegal not to provide vegetarian and vegan menu options … albeit in public facilities (i.e. school cafeterias, prisons, and public hospitals). Unfortunately, none of these spots are among my favorite dining destinations.
So while I call myself a vegetarian, it is more accurate to call me a pescatarian…Saturday afternoon, for example, I had sushi with friends in Monte Gordo and occasionally happily enjoyed “grilled fish Tuesdays” in Alcoutim. Yes, I prefer to not eat any animal flesh…but when eating out in a smaller town that can be difficult. Too often I find the vegetables terribly overcooked. I prefer to identify the individual vegetables in my vegetable soup. And there are only so many salads of lettuce, tomato, and onion one can eat.
My Advice
So while I am told there is a book detailing 1001 ways to cook bacalhau…the question a reader offered remains, “What do I do if I hate Portuguese food?” Permit me to offer three suggestions:
If you are not a vegetarian, learn to eat a whole fish while avoiding the bones. Yes, it is an art. One we observed in Porto as a lovely Portuguese subscriber prepared a grilled sardine for Denise with skill and incredible speed. It will take practice. On many occasions, we have observed nearby Portuguese diners shaking their heads as they gaze upon our bone plate. On more than one occasion we have been asked, “Aren’t you going to eat the rest of your meal?”
Live in or near a city or tourist town. If you live in Lisbon or Porto it is easy to find international cuisine2 and lots of plant-based options. During our trip to Cascais last week we even found a restaurant dedicated to brunch. I can’t tell you how excited I was! Pancakes, eggs-benedict, avocado toast, fruity champagne options…once again I second-guessed our decision to leave Cascais. And if you live in Albufeira you can have your choice of British Pubs, where you can dine on Bangers and Mash or (my favorite) Indian Curry.
Cook at home. Denise often compliments me by saying, “I don’t know why we go out to eat. We have better meals at home.” This may be true or this may be just her way of getting out of cooking…the jury is still out on this question. But the fact remains, you can’t find better raw ingredients than the ones you will find in Portugal.
So, what do you think of Portuguese food? Do you have any suggestions for the subscribers who asked the question, “What do you do if you hate Portuguese food?” Please let us know.
Até a pròxima semana, como bem, tchau
Nanc
Question for my regular readers: Should it be “the Algarve” or simply “Algarve”? I hear it both ways. My preference has always been “Algarve” comparing it to saying “New Jersey” rather than “the New Jersey”…but in this sentence referenced above it reads strange. Locals, please weigh in!
Monte Gordo has an excellent Nepalese restaurant. We actually were looking for a Thai restaurant when we found this place. I had never had Nepalese food before but found lots of tasty vegetarian options there.
Thanks for this article!
I live in Lisbon, where as you stated, you can find most EVERYTHING for a vegan or vegetarian diet in either many restaurants (where younger Portuguese chefs are starting to realize that vegetables are important) or in grocery stores ( such as Celeiro or Go Natural). Even in our local Pingo or ALDI I’ve seen a huge selection of vegan processed “meats” ( seitan, tofu, TVP) and a even a bigger selection of vegan cheeses in the Go Natural. We are lucky because we have a huge Auchan grocer with a banging selection of world foods/spices as well as vegan foodstuffs hard to find elsewhere.
I’ve read people complain about the lack of food items in many a Portuguese Expat FB group, but I’ve always assumed they live in a tiny village somewhere, not Lisbon, because it’s all here. I might suggest try ordering via Amazon Spain if your local shops don’t supply basics of vegetarian staples. Or make a monthly pilgrimage to Lisbon ( or Porto?) to gather rations.
As for your Algarve question, I’ve only heard “The Algarve”. But who knows. Oh, and that Times writer can suck it! Lol!! 🤣😂 As a former chef of 25 years, I will say there is no such thing as “soggy cod” here. Admittedly, the food here isn’t French gastronomy by any means, but it’s solid in its preparation and simply prepared. And there is nothing wrong with any of that. 🍤🔪🍽️
It’s not the Portuguese food that’s marginal. It’s the cuisine. Portuguese food is great - the olive oil, bread, eggs, seafood… My cooking has greatly improved because of the quality of the food in Portugal.
But the cuisine? I call it Post-Dictatorial. White rice, over-cooked boiled potatoes and boiled cabbage 🤢. Don’t get me started on Bacalhau - it’s not 1850. There is no need to salt fish for a long transport home. Not only do we now have refrigeration, but ships actually can package and flash-freeze as cod is caught. Maybe this information will catch on in another 50 years…
I’m grateful to live in Porto, where we have great Asian and Mexican restaurants. Except for the fruit they put on sushi… I keep a long list of favorite restaurants in Porto. Very few are Portuguese.