A Cartoonist and a Queen

A day in Caldas da Rainha

During our trip to the Silver Coast, we spent a day in Caldas da Rainha, Caldas for short. If you are looking for an affordable, authentic, mid-size city, within a 30-minute drive of the ocean you might want to give it a look.

Denise chatting with Rafael Bodalo Pinheiro on a pedestrian street in Caldas.

Bordalo Pinheiro

Some of us grew up with Bordalo Pinheiro pottery in our homes. Denise remembers fondly the cookie jar that looked like a giant strawberry on the kitchen counter of her childhood home. Founded in 1885, the company is still going strong today, and their

Instantly recognizable as Bordalo Pinheiro.

“outlet” store is visited by many. Denise had visited the store once before as part of our first Óbidos road trip. Denise and a friend waited in line for 30 minutes to get into the store (at the time Covid protocols limited the number of patrons). DJ and I observing the slow progress of the line opted for a beer in an adjacent park. On this trip, there was no line…so while I am generally averse to “shopping” we both ventured inside. To me the world “outlet” designates bargains. But I doubt you will find a bargain here. In our experience pricing of Bodalo Pinheiro is strictly controlled.

Zé Povinho, “Joe Little People”, Portugal’s common man.

You may be wondering why I titled this post the Cartoonist and the Queen. In part, it is because of the fellow you see above. (You will note he is looking over Denise’s shoulder in the photo at the top of the page.) You see Rafael Bordalo started his career as a cartoonist. Having been raised in a family of artists, he published illustrations and satirical political caricatures. He traveled to Brazil to work for the magazine Mosquito and eventually became its editor. He returned to Portugal to marry and continued his publishing career. A sculptor and ceramicist, along with his brother Feliciano, he started the factory that still exists today.

Now as to the “Queen”…

The Thermal Hospital. Caldas da Rainha can be translated as “Queen’s Hot Springs/Spa”

Healing Powers

In the late 15th century Queen Leonor, wife of King João II, was traveling through the countryside. There, along the roadside, she spotted peasants bathing in foul-smelling water. She was told that the waters possessed curative powers. As she had been suffering from an undiagnosed condition for some time, she decided to try it for herself. The story goes that she was quickly “cured” and ordered a hospital be built on that very site. She felt so strongly about sharing this discovery with the masses, that she actually sold her personal possessions to finance the construction. Thus we have the beginnings of Caldas da Rainha.

The hospital that you see above is not the original building having undergone extensive renovations after the 1755 earthquake and then later in the 19th century. However, you can purchase tickets to enter the building and its museum which is open Tuesday through Saturday from 10:00 - 12:30 and again from 14:00 - 17:00; and while inside you can visit the original Queen’s Pool.

Praça da Republica is also known as Fruit Square.

Just around the corner from the hospital, you will want to stop by the city’s local Mercado which operates nearly every day. This town of just over 20,000 residents is very walkable, with shops and cafes lining pedestrian-only streets. There are also several museums to check out, a ceramics school, and a theater. Whether you choose to spend a day or a lifetime is up to you.