7 Things to Do in Hanoi

A full day of activities for under $10 ...

We spent three nights in Hanoi. At first, we were so jet lagged that we had a quiet dinner at our hotel and called it a night. But when we returned 4 days later, we had guided tours and time to explore the city on our own. Today, we share seven things you can do without a guide … all for less than 10 US dollars or euros.

After a trip to the ATM.

Local Currency

As we looked at the menu that first night, we were puzzled. The price listed for an entree was “394”. I took out my phone and converted 394 VND to euros. It reported €0.015. I expected things to be cheap in Vietnam…but this was ridiculous. Then I noticed a comment (in tiny print) at the bottom of the menu explaining I needed to add three zeros. Ahhh … €14.98 … that makes more sense as we were at a “fancy” hotel.

The next morning, I stopped by the ATM and requested the equivalent of 2,000,000 Vietnamese Dong using my Schwab debit card.¹ My Schwab account shows less than $85 was withdrawn. So yes, things can be a lot cheaper in Vietnam. Denise had a linen blazer and shorts made to order in about 24 hours for $160. However, today, let me offer seven things to do for next to nothing.

Hanoi traffic. Photo taken from VNA/VNS, Thành Đạt

#1 Participate in Vietnam’s Favorite Sport (FREE)

Our guide told us that Hanoi’s number one participant sport was crossing the road … and it is not for the faint of heart. I will admit that on our first night out, we didn’t know what we were doing or what directions the cars and motorbikes were coming from. (I am convinced that traffic lights and stop signs are merely suggestions in some parts of the city.) But after we received instruction from a local we could have been gold medalists. Here are the rules/suggestions:

• Look both ways, even if you are about to cross a one-way street;

• If possible, wait for a local and act like their best friend as they cross;

• If traveling without a local, look for an opening and proceed at a steady pace … never run or stop while crossing the road! The motor bikes will go around you.

#2 Hanoi Train Street (FREE)

We started our day by walking to the Hanoi Train Street. We asked someone at the front desk what time the train would be passing through. They said it should be around 9:30 … give or take. Though you can find a schedule online, you will want to be flexible as the train passes through when it passes through. Following the guidelines above it took us just 15 minutes from our hotel. When we arrived, we found other members of our group who had taken taxis, drinking coffee at cafes that lined the street. We also noted that work was underway along the side of the tracks.

When they heard the whistle, I assumed they moved.

Inside Hoa Lo Prison.

#3 Hoa Lo Prison (50,000vnd, less than $2)

After the train passes by, walk just 11 minutes to the Hoa Lo Prison. As Americans, we think of the Hanoi Hilton as the site where Senator John McCain and others were detained during what we call the Vietnam War. However, the Vietnamese call this the American War … distinguishing it from the Japanese and French Wars before it. In the late 19th Century, until the mid-20th Century, Vietnam was part of French Indochina. While the French were responsible for building much of the early infrastructure in Vietnam, one must remember that this was to transport rice, coal, minerals, and rubber out of the country.

The French opened the prison, Maison Centrale, in 1901 to lock up Vietnamese fighting for independence. As many as 2000 were shackled to the wall, in appalling conditions. Some were executed by guillotine.

After the Americans were released, it once again became a prison for political dissidents … but this time, the Vietnamese were jailing Vietnamese. In 1990, it was closed … in part to make way for a high rise.

#4 Hoàn Kiém Lake (FREE)

Next, practice your street crossing skills as you walk a short distance to Hoàn Kiém Lake. After the prison, you’ll need time for reflection, and there is no better place in the city to do just that.

#5 Ngoc Son Temple (30,000vnd, less than $1.25)

As you gaze about the lake, you will see a temple perched on a small island. It was first constructed in 1841 to worship Van Xuong De Quan, a Taoist deity that brings happiness and wealth. It is also dedicated to General Tran Hung Dao (1231 - 1300), who defeated the Mongols in the 13th century. Over time, other structures have been added including: Tran Ba Pavillion, The Huc Bridge, and Pen Tower. If you enjoy architecture, you are bound to enjoy visiting this peaceful oasis.

Denise below ground in a funny hat.

#6 Vist the Bunker (FREE*)

*Okay, it is free for hotel guests. So, if you are unwilling to plunk down nearly $300/night for a hotel room, I suggest you act like you belong there. They begin the tour each night in the lobby at 17:00 and 18:00. Just show up, they don’t take attendance.

The Sofitel Metropole Hotel in Hanoi has a storied past. During the tour, you will see photos of the many statesmen and dignitaries who have visited. (Also included is a picture of Donald Trump taken during his meeting with Kim Jong Un.) However, the tour's highlight will be your descent into the bunker used to protect guests during the American War (1964-1973). It was closed after the war but rediscovered during renovations to a hotel bar.

Joan Baez painted this lovely portrait, which hangs in the lobby, while a guest at the hotel.

Photo hanging on the wall of the restaurant.

#7 Bún chả Hương Liên (280,000vnd/$11 for two)

A couple we met on our tour had enjoyed a Vietnamese food tour on the day they arrived. It was during this tour that they were introduced to bún chà. They asked if we wanted to join them at the restaurant President Barack Obama and the late Anthony Bourdain made famous. We enthusiastically accepted their invitation. We walked 15 minutes from the Sofitel Hotel to an unassuming street. We arrived at about 18:30, and the restaurant was very crowded. We climbed three floors up wanky, winding stairs, looking for an empty table. I saw a sign that read “4” with an arrow pointing up. I climbed to the 4th floor, but it was dark. As I descended, a restaurant employee hurriedly stopped me and gestured to communicate it was okay. She turned on the lights, and the four of us sat on stools at a table in what may have been the room you see above. The only difference was that the picture above was hanging on the wall. Beneath it was the Obama special: a bowl of traditional bún chà paired with deep-fried Hanoi-style spring rolls and a bottle of Hanoi beer.

While pho is a staple throughout Vietnam, bún chà seems to be a Hanoi thing. I am not a foodie, but I am told the broth is different. Typically served with pork (though they provided a vegetarian version for me), the best thing about bún chà is the many leafy vegetables and herbs that one adds to the broth. We each had the spring roll, bún chà, and two beers. Each couple anted up $11.

So there you have it … a perfect day in Hanoi for less than $10 per person.

BTW: we were advised against taking one of the bicycle rickshaws. The drivers typically attempt to get a higher fare than originally quoted. There are also many unlicensed cab companies in Vietnam. If you need a cab, ask your hotel to hail a licensed one.

Finally, let me close with the photo below. We were reminded that we were in a Communist country while watching CNN one night. I am not sure what the commercial was during the broadcast, but clearly, the government censors did not approve.

Até à próxima semana, fica bem,

Nanc

Final Note: We are watching the Southern California fires from afar, and our hearts ache for everyone affected by this devastating event. I hope those impacted find the support they need while navigating this incredibly challenging time. My thoughts are with the victims, the communities, and the brave responders working tirelessly in difficult conditions.

1. Most ATMs will also provide US dollars which many merchants also accept.