Typically on Wednesdays, we utilize Portugal’s wonderful public transportation system to visit Lisbon and nearby towns. But as we now own a car we decided to take a day trip…to Nazaré.
Fog to Glorious Sun
As we drove the 90 minutes from our home we passed in and out of areas of fog. As we approached the town we found ourselves in “fog soup”. It was difficult to see more than one block ahead of you. But as it was a weekday we quickly found a free parking space and walked a few blocks down to the beach. (At least I think we were at the beach. We heard the waves…though we didn’t see them.) I consulted Google Maps and found the Tourist office just a few blocks away. Upon arrival, I clumsily asked for a map. “Gostaria de ter um mapa da cidade.” The words were right…perhaps it was my American accent and her Portuguese good nature that caused the receptionist to instantly switch to English. I told her we would only be in town for 5 or 6 hours. She suggested a route.
We stopped first at the Mercado next store. It had restrooms, yeah … lots of fresh produce and fish … and a merchant selling lightweight rain jackets. With winter approaching I had been looking for just such an item. At €20, I was certain I had found a bargain.
Head to the Funicular
We then followed the prescribed route to the funicular. The town of Nazaré exists on two levels. First, on the “ground floor,” there is a moon-shaped beach. Facing the beach to the right is a rather significant cliff. You can walk up, but for under €3 round trip the funicular which runs every 15 minutes is a far more relaxing way to reach the Sitio. Once a separate city, the areas are now combined.
We disembarked and followed the crowd. It seemed like everyone was following the prescribed route. Our first stop was the Santuário de Nossa Senhora da Nazaré. Admission to the main part of the chapel is free. For €1 you can extend your visit to include areas behind the alter. While Denise waited, I went to explore the upper nave.
I began by walking down a hall that I was certain had been tiled by Tim Gunn. I also passed several odd display cabinets.
I learned that these objects (babies, limbs, breasts, organs, houses, cars) are called promessas de cera or “wax promises”. They are molded to celebrate answered prayers: a hand that no longer hurts, a premature baby that pulled through, cancer of an organ now in remission. As I researched this tradition, I found that there are vendors that sell these in Fatima as well.
The Black Virgin & a Legend
This is also the home of the Black Virgin, Our Lady of Nazaré. Carved in wood, it was brought to this site in 711 by a monk, Friar Romano, who was fleeing Muslim invaders. She attracts a large number of pilgrims to the church each September.
The annual pilgrimage celebrates the Legend of Nazaré. The legend goes like this. Dom Fuas Roupinho was hunting in the Sitio on a foggy morning in the 12th century. He separated from his companions when he was chasing a deer (aka the devil) which jumped off the edge of the cliff. When his horse followed and he was nearly falling from the cliff, he asked Our Lady of Nararé for help. Suddenly the horse stopped and pressed its hind legs at the upper edge of the cliff, saving his life.
The sculpture, Deer, which I posted on Sunday references the Legend of Nazaré as well as Nazaré as a surfing destination. To learn more about that, you will have to join me again next week. Till then, enjoy these additional photos.
Phenomenal Tile work and architecture. Greetings from across the pond. A new car! Enjoy your weekend.
Wow, what an incredible church. We were in Sitio and missed the church. Another day perhaps.