In Search of Tunnels

Disappointment

I really need to do better research. I often happen upon a spot when traveling, then realize that I don’t have enough time to fully investigate. I make a mental note to return … but often I don’t. This time we did, but…

I can understand photos, but checking for text messages while descending the well?

Quinta da Regaleira

We first visited Quinta da Regaleira on the 28th of April. It was Denise’s birthday and I had arranged for our driver, Victor, to provide us a personal tour of Sintra. Covid lockdown had just been lifted and it was a weekday … there was not a tourist in sight. We strolled through Castelo dos Mouros and never saw another soul. We entered Pena Palace without standing in a line to purchase a ticket. (Note: our besties went one Saturday a few weeks back, waiting in line for over 1 hour just to get in.) Alas, on this trip there were plenty of tourists. Many in groups of 10 blocking the walkways, oblivious to those of us “on a mission” as they listened to their knowledgeable, enthusiastic tour guides.

I shouldn’t admit this…but I missed that drizzly, gloomy day in April when Denise and I had the place to ourselves.

Compare this to Sunday’s photo.

If you read the first post on Quinta da Regaleira you may recall I mentioned then that I should have done better research. I didn’t. You may also recall I wrote that I could have downloaded an app. I forgot! Finally, you may recall that I wanted to return and explore the tunnels. Well…

Damn You Covid

We made a beeline for the Poco Iniciático. We had even remembered our flashlights! With our mag lights in hand, we got into the queue to enter the well. If you didn’t read the original post, permit me to offer this brief explanation:

The wells, which look like inverted towers, were not sources of water but rather used for ceremonial purposes…Many believe the 27-meter deep Poco Iniciático was used by the Masons with each floor of the well representing one of the nine cycles of hell from Dante’s Divine Comedy.

We reached the bottom of the well. It probably took no more than 3 minutes…but to my un-Portuguese, impatient self it seemed like an hour. My excitement quickly turned to disappointment. We could put our mag lights away, the tunnel was lit with LED strip lighting.

We were shocked…I was disappointed.

I am not sure if this is a recent “enhancement”. Perhaps it is part of Portugal’s accessibility initiative. I had previously read that the tunnels were not lit. I was looking forward to getting lost below the surface in cool, dark tunnels. But then we encountered this:

As the sign is in English too I couldn’t feign language ignorance.

Had I taken the time to visit the Quinta’s website, I would have read the following:

COVID-19 SECURITY NORMAS

(valid from 13th September 2021)

• Use of facemasks is required inside and required outside whenever the physical distance between visitors cannot be guaranteed;…
• Circulation in the underground walkways is allowed between the Initiatic Well and the Eastern Grotto, one way only;
• The Waterfall Path is closed.

Visitors who don’t comply with security norms will be asked to leave.

I will admit, I did think about it…

It would have been so cool to access the waterfall from inside the tunnel.

Will We Return Again?

Will we come back? I don’t know. We did spend another 90 minutes or so, walking through the gardens. It was a beautiful day. The temperature was perfect, 24 degrees C/75 degrees F. The sun was warm against our skin. The sky was the perfect blue. But as we hadn’t had breakfast, we left in search of lunch. As it turns out, shortly after we sat down at Villa 6 we texted a friend who had told us she was planning on visiting Sintra that same day. She was nearby, so she and her friend joined us for a lovely mid-day meal.

We then spent a bit of time walking through town…visiting the many shops and street vendors that line the winding, narrow streets. We spotted a couple (readers who were visiting Cascais as part of a month-long Portugal reconnaissance visit) we had met the prior Sunday. We shared a cup of coffee and then headed on our way. Later that evening, they sent me a video of a beautiful spot where they enjoyed their evening meal and watched the sunset. What a find! I really need to do better research.