Finally, Belém
Yesterday, for the first time in months (literally since we arrived in Portugal) we left the municipality of Cascais and journeyed by train to Belém, a 19km (12 miles) ride that took just 32 minutes.
Lisboa Viva
We decided to purchase a rechargeable Lisboa Viva card. To purchase the card we had to fill out a form, provide a passport size photo and our NIF paperwork. After one week we were able to pick up the card in Cascais. The card can be used in either of two ways: pay as you go, loading the card with 5 or 10 euros to cover your next few trips; or pay a monthly fee that provides unlimited use. As seniors we are eligible for a 50% discount, so we paid 20 euros each for the month and are entitled to unlimited train, bus, metro, and ferry use. We expect to travel at least once each week to Lisbon and other nearby cities and have no immediate plan to buy a car, we are confident we will get our money’s worth. (Since my saga with the MobiCascais app is still not resolved, I was pleased to learn it worked on the buses in Cascais as well.)
Day Trip
We left our home shortly before 9:00 and arrived around 9:40. We actually stopped at Algés, one-stop before Belėm, and walked along the Tagus River for about 8 minutes. On route, we passed some beautiful modern architecture including the Monument to the Overseas Combatants where guards stand watch over an eternal flame situated in a pool of sparkling, clear water. Most of the museums don’t open till 10:00 or 11:00, but that gave us time to see the Belém Tower which was built in the sixteenth century to guard the harbor. It was used as a state prison for several centuries, but today this UNESCO-listed monument is a symbol of the Portuguese capital. Just a few steps away is the Monument to the Discoveries (above), built in 1960 to celebrate the 500th anniversary of the death of Prince Henry the Navigator, who is credited with turning Portugal into the leading maritime nation in Europe in the fifteenth century. Henry the Navigator is at the prow, with 32 figures on either side representing navigators, cartographers, warriors, colonizers, missionaries, chroniclers, and artists that assisted in the journeys.
We then traveled across the street to the Museu Berardo – Contemporary and Modern Art in Belém. Let me say, I love art! And if we are traveling and I see an art museum, we are going into it. In this case, you really need to like 20th century and 21st-century avant-gardes art. You will find pieces by Marcel Duchamp, Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dalí, Andy Warhol, etc. However, for many of the pieces, particularly the audio-visual ones, I came away mumbling “Não entendo”. (As seniors, again we received a 50% discount and only paid 2,5 euros to enter. On Saturdays, admission is free.)
While we were both very impressed with the size of the museum and its design, I enjoyed the art in the galleries that we passed as you walk to the entrance even more than the museum. But, of course, art is subjective.
Before lunch, we had one more stop, the Jerónimos Monastery. We began in the church, which is free, and then walked into the Monastery (which was 5 euros each, again we received a 50% senior discount). Known as one of the most prominent examples of the Portuguese Late Gothic Manueline style of architecture, it too has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Time for Lunch
We walked through the gardens (Jardim da Praça do Império) that extend about 2 blocks in front of the monastery, toward umbrellas that we were certain indicated outdoor dining. It turned out we found a row of restaurants and using the tried and true method (look for the most crowded one where people are only speaking Portuguese). It turned out that the restaurant offered fish, fish, and fish. Perfect. Denise wanted the octopus but was told (in Portuguese…another good sign) that even though the restaurant had only been open for one hour, it was sold out. So we both had the traditional bacalhau (cod) of the day. I asked if they had vinho verde (a light white wine) and Denise agreed she would have some too. Within minutes a very large carafe (at least the equivalent of one bottle) appeared on our table. It was quite good, 6 euros, and neither of us was driving. What the heck…
We finished lunch around 1500 (3 pm) and decided to call it a day. Frankly, we both wanted a nap. I have read guides suggesting Belém is a day trip…but I can’t see how. There is another “Popular” art museum, a military and maritime museum (you know those are on Denise’s list), a Planetarium, the MAAT, and the must-see Museum of Coaches. And of course, we have to stop at the home of pastéis de nata, the Pastéis de Belem. Needless to say, I see another day trip in the very near future.
Final Note: Yesterday’s email went out late. I typically write 2 or 3 postings at a time and schedule them to be sent between 0800 and 0900 Lisbon time. For some reason when we got home late yesterday afternoon, I noticed the system had not initiated the emails. This is supposed to happen automatically. This had happened once before, but due to lockdown I was home and was able to send it before anyone in North America would notice.
I will note that I was heartened by an email I received from one reader asking if we were okay and saying that she missed my musings. Very sweet! Obrigada! If, like her, you do enjoy these posts (or at least most of them) I want to ask a favor. Share your favorite post with just one friend. You can forward the email or post it on social media. If you do, we could very quickly eclipse 1000 subscribers. A community of people that travel or dream of travel … people who love Portugal or think they might love Portugal … a group that is just open to looking at the world from the other side. And finally, if you want to see more photos, find me on Facebook (Expat Inportugal).
museums, art galleries, architecture AND WINE!!! Bela. And yes, love the chapéu
Love it!