We are Wimps

Okay, I’ll admit it. We are wimps … or I should say I am a wimp. Generally speaking, banking, finances, and residency issues are my responsibility for our household. And while I pretty much handle most of the banking and financial issues on my own1, I rely on Relocate to Portugal when it comes to residency. It was relatively easy 3 years ago. We checked a box on the SEF website and waited for our cards. But, of course, things are a bit “tighter” now, and having heard the challenges friends had encountered, I didn’t even think about doing it on our own. Instead, we called Nilse!

It Started with a Phone Call

Nilse explained the process RTP uses to assist clients with renewing residency permits. RTP offers several options, from a phone call and documentation on what you need to “do it yourself”2 to a full-blown “make it so Danno” approach. We chose the latter. While I am happy to discuss the process they use with you one-on-one,3 today, let me share the list of documents we needed to retrieve so Nilse could “make it so”:

• First, we needed to address everything that had changed since our last renewal. In our case, this included address change, addition of SNS number and SSN to our card, as well as my new passport number. I provided all these details to Nilse, and one by one, she submitted the changes to AIMA. As the AIMA system received this data, it verified the information by sending a code to our email. This meant that we needed to be available to receive the code and then immediately provide that code to Nilse. (I want to personally thank the creators of smartphones and WhatsApp, as we were able to complete this process while walking to the beach!) While our cards do not expire until 4 August, we completed this process in April.

Now the “Heavy Lifting”

If you hate paperwork as much as I do, this qualifies as “heavy lifting”.4

Also in April, we collected the documentation required and uploaded it to the system RTP has created. As we own our home, this included:

• Photo of the front and back of residency cards

• Proof that we own our home, including a document called the Declaraçao de Alojamento (which RTP provided), which we needed to sign, a Certidão from Finanças, which I think showed we paid our taxes, the Caderneta Predial Urbana (also from the Finanças website), which basically describes your house, our deed, and a copy of a utility bill.

• To satisfy the proof of income requirement, we provided my Social Security statement from the IRS.gov site and a copy of Denise’s military pension statement. 3 months of bank statements would also be required … but I waited to download these until the day we submitted the paperwork.

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• As we have private health insurance, in addition to a screenshot of our information on the SNS website, we included a copy of our private insurance.

• The most annoying part was providing every f$%king page of our passports. First, our HP scanner has a mind of its own, and you can’t autofeed 50 pages (most of which are blank) of a US Passport. Of course, AIMA has a size limit, so at first I reduced the quality of the image to save space. But that became unreadable. So after several failed attempts, I scanned every f$%king page, and Nilse compressed the file.

• There was a document Nilse provided that we needed to sign and scan, authorizing Portugal to do a criminal background check.

• And finally, we included a copy of our CIPLE certificates in hopes that we could apply for Permanent Residency at some point in time.5

The Portal is Available

On 5 May, the portal became available for August renewals. However, at that time, we were in Egypt, and it did not allow us to register on the portal from outside the country. However, Nilse was in Portugal … God bless her.

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Shortly after our return, we received an email from AIMA instructing us to make a payment. We did that immediately! We then got an email explaining we could now upload the required documents. We (yes, Nilse was a big part of the we) uploaded all the documents to the AIMA website. Within hours, we received another email confirming their receipt. The email included a QR code, which provided a 6-month extension of our cards. (I guess we should assume the card won’t arrive before 4 August.)

So Now We Wait

On 15 May, we received an email from AIMA explaining that they had received all the documents. At that time, Nilse estimated that an “approval” email would follow in 4-8 weeks and then the cards 4 weeks later. We are closing in on 8 weeks and nada. Through a text exchange with Nilse (I apologise for texting her while she was on vacation … I honestly did not know), I learned that the more recent experience is 60-90 days to get the “approval” email.

So it seems clear we won’t get the card before the current one expires. Of course, we have travel planned in late August. Concerned that we might receive an envelope from CTT that requires our signature in our absence, I have paid a local attorney to create the Portuguese equivalent of a Power of Attorney. If CTT attempts to deliver the cards while we are gone, our dog-sitter will take the form CTT leaves to Linen Ana at the store on the corner. With the POA in hand, she can retrieve the cards before they are sent back to the dreaded black hole.

So what do you think? Have things gotten better? I realize many do this on their own6. Did you? Let me know in the comments below.

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É por isso que esperar e ter esperança são a mesma palavra. Tchau

Nanc

Final Thoughts: So far, I have referred two couples to RTP for renewal assistance. Neither couple had used RTP during their relocation process. Both raved about the service they received and have thanked me repeatedly for the referral. We do not receive any compensation from RTP. We pay the same amount for their service as anyone else.

1. A Walking Tour

As is our custom, we began our three days in Warsaw with a free walking tour. 1 Taisa, our guide, grew up in the city and has an advanced degree in history. She was a wealth of knowledge and was very approachable. In addition to pointing out the sites and sharing the city’s history, she offered recommendations for dining and was open to discussing just about anything. We had a very interesting discussion related to Poland’s declining birth rate.2 Taisa felt that Poland’s total ban on abortion was partially to blame, citing women’s concerns that their own lives could be put at risk.

Warsaw was decimated during WWII, so the old town you see today was rebuilt after the war. Great care was taken to rebuild the city as it had been before. Taisa also shared with us why Chopin is so beloved by this city.

2. Chopin Concert

You can’t walk down a street in Warsaw without seeing some mention of Chopin. The composer was born in this city, and the Poles want you to know it.3 In addition to a statue in the town square, nearly every hotel and venue offers a Chopin concert nearly every night. We booked our stay at the Chopin Boutique Bed & Breakfast and enjoyed a one-hour concert during our stay.

3. Vodka and Beer

Let’s start with the obvious…we love beer … and Poland offers plenty of opportunities to enjoy it. But while we were there, we spent a day in the Praga district of the city. Praga is a young, hip section of the city. While some areas are a bit “gritty,” the Centrum Praskie Koneser is a lovely commercial/residential complex with stores, restaurants, and a Vodka Museum. Vodka is another thing that the Poles lay claim to. The 1-hour tour was in a beautiful restored warehouse. Our knowledgeable guide led us through various displays explaining the different ways vodka can be made and bottled. The tour ended with a vodka tasting. I am certain that we were tasting some of the finest examples of potato, grain, and hybrid blends; however, I prefer to consume my vodka with tonic or cranberry juice. So while some on our tour finished each glass, the four of us lightweights left a lot behind.

4. The Food

While in Krakow, we stayed at the Hotel Estera. The hotel had been chosen by the couple we were traveling with, and while not in the center of town, it turned out to be an excellent choice. In part, because of its proximity to lots and lots of food. While we did go to some very nice restaurants, permit me to point out two other options for budget-oriented travelers. Located in the Kazimierz district, the Hotel Estera is across the street from the Judah Food Market; a open-air spot bringing together food stalls and food trucks offering a traditional Polish staple called zapiekanki. Imagine that you cut a baguette in half and then pile it high with cheese, vegetables, meats, and sauces. For less than €5 you can buy a half (more than enough for Denise or me) or for less than €8 a whole (which I was amazed to watch our traveling companion Mike consume).

We also visited a “Milk Bar” one day for lunch. Milk Bars originated in Poland late in the 19th century but evolved under communism to become state-subsidized worker cafeterias. While far fewer remain today, they remain a beloved, no-frills option offering hearty, authentic Polish meals at a fraction of the price of a restaurant meal. My lunch included three times the number of pierogies I could consume, plus a wonderful grated carrot salad and juice for about €6. Denise had potato pancakes, and our traveling companion Mary had the feast you see above … juice, three salads, and gnocchi covered with goulash. Her meal was less than €8. We could have invited at least three others to share our meals with.

5. Interesting Things to Do

Last week, I commented on perhaps the most notable feature of visiting Krakow, a trip to Auschwitz and Birkenau. Today, let me comment on three others.

• TripAdvisor rates the Wieliczka Salt Mine 4.5 on a scale of 5. While I would not rate it that high, seeing the incredible sculptures and chandeliers made entirely of salt made it worth the price of admission. While some might find the 800-step descent taxing, I have good news. First, it is divided into three manageable chunks, and second, there is an elevator that whisks you to the top following the tour.

• We also visited Oskar Schindler’s Enamel Factory. I must offer two caveats when it comes to this attraction. First, we were glad we opted for the skip-the-line tour as the crowds were oppressive. However, we felt the guide rushed us through the many displays. And the tour focuses on Polish history, while only one room speaks to Schindler and his contribution during the war.

• However, by taking the tour, we had free admission to the Eagle Pharmacy, which we absolutely loved. Established in 1909, the Eagle Pharmacy was run by the Pankiewicz family and happened to be located in the center of the Jewish ghetto in 1941. While run by a Christian and offered the opportunity to relocate his pharmacy, Pankiewicz and his staff were the only four non-Jews permitted to stay within the ghetto. They provided medicine and hair dyes to help older/weaker inhabitants avoid deportation. They medicated children so they could be hidden or smuggled in luggage out of the ghetto. Pankiewicz and his assistants: Irena Droździkowska, Aurelia Danek, and Helena Krywaniu were true heros and this small museum tells their story through highly interactive displays. If you visit Krakow, make a point of visiting the pharmacy.

As the chart above and our food exploits show, Poland is a real bargain. We took Uber/Bolt on several occasions and were always amazed at how inexpensive the rides were. And if you live in Algarve, you will find the bargain continues with inexpensive direct flights from Faro to both Warsaw and Krakow on RyanAir. I realize some don’t like RyanAir, but we have found them to be a reliable discount carrier. Since they don’t fly every day to these cities, you may need to move your plans one day forward or back. You may have to limit your luggage to a backpack that fits under the seat in front of you to avoid baggage fees. And yes, RyanAir will start “boarding” you (i.e., making you wait on the jetway for thirty minutes while they deplane) as the plane approaches the airport. But these are minor inconveniences to visit a lovely country with so much to offer.

Destrutar,

Nanc

Walking Tour

The geographical boundaries, and Poland’s sheer existance has changed over the years. When your country is relatively flat, and you have the Soviet Union on one side, Austria on another, and Germany on yet another … you're screwed. However, the way that Warsaw and Krakow responded and were treated during WWII is quite different. While Warsaw was destroyed … Krakow, due to its significant German population, and, giving up the fight very early, was not. That is not to suggest there was no suffering. Jews and other “undesirables” were stuffed into ghettos, beaten, starved, sent to work camps or death camps. And given this history, we felt it necessary to visit Auschwitz and Birkenau.

The Camps

When we purchased tickets, we were asked what time we would like to begin the tour. We requested 8:30. When we received the confirmation, it instructed us to meet a few blocks from our hotel at 5:30 for our 7:30 tour. We set our alarms.

I assume you are familiar with the deliberate, planned genocide … the “final solution”.2 So rather than describe the visit, I want to share my reaction. One that I found surprising.

Bring Lots of Tissues

Everyone we spoke to who had visited these sites instructed us to bring lots of tissues. I recalled our visit to Terezin and how I felt after that visit. I expected this would be far worse. And it was…but it wasn’t. Perhaps it was the near monotone of our tour guide.3 Perhaps it was seeing models of the destruction of Warsaw, or the fact that I rewatched The Pianist one night while we were traveling. But I have to admit, I never cried during our 3.5-hour tour to Auschwitz and Birkenau.

Banksy Museum

But a few days later, I did need those tissues. We visited the Banksy Museum in Krakow. If you are ever in a city that has a Banksy Museum, I encourage you to take the time (2-3 hours) to visit. It will make you laugh…

It will make you think…

And it will make you cry. I cried at the exhibition related to his work in Ukraine. (Watch the video above.) And I cried at his Walled Off Hotel and his work in Gaza. (See video below.)

Nuremberg

During one of our flights home from Egypt, I watched the 2025 film Nuremberg. In the film, Michael Shannon says, “We put these men on trial so it can never happen again.” But at the end of the movie, Rami Malek, who plays a psychiatrist in the film, asserts that men like Hitler and Göring are not unique, one-dimensional monsters. Instead, he suggests that they are ordinary, ambitious humans living among us. At the time, I thought the parallel to Trump was obvious. Banksy reminds us that it exists in many places.

Até à próxima vez, sejam gentis uns com os outros,

Nanc

A Shameless Plug: As I referenced above, we learned quite a bit about Poland’s history during our walking tours. I guess I wasn’t fully aware of the impact Poland’s history had on me until this week. I went into my studio to paint an abstract landscape and ended up with the painting below. My meditation on borders…

I need to sit with it for a few days to decide if it is done. But I suspect it will be off to the framers in a week or so and then available on ncwhitemanart.com. If you subscribe to the newsletter on that site (which comes out about once a month), you will find out when new pieces become available. Or email me if you want more information.

Saqqara

You may recall we saw the pyramids in the distance on the first day of our tour. On the last full day, we actually visited them. We started our day at the pyramids at Saqqara, Egypt’s oldest complex. Dating back to 3100 BC, this site was the home to the Early Dynastic Period when Memphis was the political capital of Egypt.

We started our tour at the funerary complex. The photo to the left above shows the colonnade or ceremonial facade of the funerary complex. A maze of underground tunnels leads from this point. We walked above ground to a large courtyard where our guide pointed out an area used for the Hab-Sed Festival.

You can think of Hab-Sed as a royal jubilee, a festival that celebrated a pharaoh after he ruled for 30 years. The ruler demonstrated his strength and vitality by “running” around a marked area several times. This practice would repeat every 3-4 years. The Heb-Sed “recharged” the king, demonstrating his ability to rule with divine authority. When I asked our guide how a 70-year-old man could run this distance, he explained it was more ceremonial than a 400-meter run. However, these ancient people believed that if the pharaoh was not able to complete the run, their kingdom would weaken and fall.2

We then entered the Step Pyramid you see above. The ruler Djoser ordered that this first pyramid be built between 2667 and 2648 BC. Before this time, royal tombs were mostly flat rectangles with sloped sides. Known as mastabas, the Arabic word for “bench”. One can still see these today, sitting in the desert. While these look solid from above, below ground are storage rooms, chambers, painted walls of farms and servants, chapels, and deep burial shafts. This was necessary because they believed the dead needed sustenance to keep the spirit alive. You can see how the Step Pyramid evolved from the mastaba, as it was enlarged and then stacked with successively smaller mastabas.

Inside, we walked through narrow passageways until we reached a shaft, which is believed to be the burial chamber. This is the image to the right above.

Off in the distance, you can see the evolution of pyramids. Some attempts were not entirely successful, as you see the one on the left is a bit misshapen.

Pyramids of Giza

We then moved on to the Pyramids of Giza. These were the ones we had seen in the distance when visiting GEM. The Great Pyramid was the tallest human-made structure for more than 3700 years, standing at nearly 500 feet. It is estimated that about 2.3 million large, but not uniform blocks were used to construct the Great Pyramid. On the outside, the pyramids were covered by smooth white limestone, which came from the Giza Plateau. (See below.)

Over time, this outer casing has fallen away, creating a structure that can be climbed. Fun fact: throughout our cruise, Death on the Nile was played on a loop on one of the TV channels. One afternoon, I watched the film and noted its main characters climbing to the top of a pyramid. I asked our guide about it. He explained that climbing the pyramids became illegal after a tourist fell to his death. However, if you look closely at the photo below, it would appear this prohibition does not apply to dogs. 3

We ended our day at the site below.

It is believed the Great Sphinx was created between 2600 and 2500 BC for the king Khufu, the builder of the Great Pyramid of Giza, or his son Khafre, the builder of the second Pyramid at Giza. What I found most remarkable is that this huge sculpture was sculpted in place, carved from the bedrock of the plateau.

Why We Travel?

In a previous post, I quoted the words of St. Augustine:

“The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page.”

There are places that we visit that we long to return to: Japan, France, Scotland, etc. There are others (China, Egypt, Morocco) that we will likely visit only once. However, we are glad we went! There was so much to learn, and for us, that is what it is all about.

Serious Security

We were surprised by the level of security in hotels, airports, and around the temples, pyramids, and museums. To access many of these properties, a bomb sniffing dog first circled our bus. We entered through metal detectors and had all bags scanned. There was a clear police presence, though it wasn’t overwhelming.

But perhaps most surprising were the two guys in business suits with Uzi Pistols on their hips on our bus and accompanying us everywhere we went. It took Denise and me two days to spot the weapons, but when I did, I asked Sharif, “Is that really necessary?” He explained there had been a terrorist attack in 1997 at the Temple of Hatshepsut in Dayr al-Bahri.1 Six gunmen killed 62 people, primarily tourists, during a 45-minute assault.

Abu Simbel

One of the things we like about Uniworld is that nearly everything is included in the price of the cruise. However, as Abu Simbel is over 140 miles from Aswan, where our boat was docked, this trip by plane came at an additional cost. The complex is situated very close to the Sudan border, now next to Lake Nassar. Built between  1264 BC and 1244 BC. Over the following centuries, this area became a giant dune. Discovered by a Swiss researcher in 1813, he wrote:

When we reached the top of the mountain, I left my guide, with the camels, and descended an almost perpendicular cleft, cloaked with sand, to view the temple of Ebsambal, of which I had heard many magnificent descriptions. There is no road at present to this temple... It stands about twenty feet above the surface of the water, entirely cut out of the almost perpendicular rocky side of the mountain, and in complete preservation. In front of the entrance are six erect colossal figures, representing juvenile persons, three on each side, placed in narrow recesses, and looking towards the river; they are all of the same size, stand with one foot before the other, and are accompanied by smaller figures... Having, as I supposed, seen all the antiquities of Ebsambal, I was about to ascend the sandy side of the mountain by the same way I had descended; when having luckily turned more to the southward, I fell in with what is yet visible of four immense colossal statues cut out of the rock, at a distance of about two hundred yards from the temple; they stand in a deep recess, excavated in the mountain; but it is greatly to be regretted, that they are now almost entirely buried beneath the sands, which are blown down here in torrents. The entire head, and part of the breast and arms of one of the statues are yet above the surface; of the one next to it scarcely any part is visible, the head being broken off, and the body covered with sand to above the shoulders; of the other two, the bonnets only appear. It is difficult to determine, whether these statues are in a sitting or standing posture; their backs adhere to a portion of rock, which projects from the main body, and which may represent a part of a chair, or may be merely a column for support. — Jonh Lewis Burckhardt, Travels in Nubia.

The complex was relocated in its entirety in 1968 so that it would not be submerged by Lake Nassar and the Aswan Dam reservoir.2 When I say in its entirety, I am not kidding. Starting in November 1963, they built a cofferdam around the temple to protect it from the rising waters. This 370-meter structure was extended 27 meters when the 1964 floods threatened to top the structure. Still water seeped in, requiring the installation of drainage tunnels, a pumping station, and drilling rigs to drill 15 deep wells. They then removed 300,000 tons of rock to free the temple from the hill into which it was built.

Scaffolding was erected inside the temple. They removed the roof and worked their way down … numbering more than 1000 20-30 ton pieces. After these were transported on sand cushions 208 meters further inland, they began reassembling the blocks onto a foundation. After assembling the Temples, a protective dome was constructed over them to protect them from the 300,000 tons of material removed from the original site. They also installed electric lights and a ventilation system hidden in the domes. The following short video provides a glimpse into the scale of the engineering challenge.

What makes this story even more fascinating is the fact that the ancient people were even more precise than their 20th-century counterparts. You see, Ramesses II was a bit full of himself and often placed himself alongside the Gods. (See left photo in gallery above.) He ordered that the light streaming in from the opening of the temple illuminate his face twice a year (on his birthday and the anniversary of his coronation). His ancient builders got it right, but the modern ones were off by 5mm … missing his face on these important days.

Temple of Arsenophis/Isis/Horus

We also had the opportunity to visit a temple on an island, first at night and then the next morning. The evening light show included music along with a theatrical recording of a conversation between Isis and Horus. When we visited the next day, we learned that it was also part of UNESCO's international campaign to save the monuments of Nubia, which ran from 1960 to 1980. In this case, the temple was originally on an island submerged by floodwater and relocated to Agilkia Island, 500 meters away. Many consider this to be “the greatest archaeological rescue campaign of all time.”

Pyramids?

I’ve included photos of the magnificent colors you can see in many of the Temples. We learned these vibrant colors were created by grinding natural minerals (malachite, iron oxide-rich ochre, etc) and mixing them with binders like animal glue. They then applied the paint to freshly plastered surfaces. It really is remarkable how vibrant the colors remain!

Our trip ended back in Cairo, visiting the pyramids. I’m happy to write about this next time, but I don’t want to bore you. Let me know if you would like me to return to a more Portuguese-centric topic.

Até à próxima vez,

Nanc

January 2025

It was just 16 months ago that we took our first Uniworld Riverboat Cruise in Vietnam and Cambodia. My first post about that amazing experience can be found here. If you read those posts, you will recall we were spoiled by the entire experience. While the culture and customs are very different here, we are once again being spoiled. Uniworld has 2 boats that cruise the River Nile. The newer of those boats, the Sphinx, is at 60% capacity. We are at less than 30% capacity on the Tosca. Because of that, there are three crew members for each guest.

Among the crew is a very knowledgeable Egyptologist. Sharif holds many advanced degrees and has worked excavating these treasured sites for over 20 years. There is no question he cannot answer, and the way he weaves a tale is truly captivating. I can’t imagine visiting these sites without such an expert for our small group of 21.

However, if you enjoy sleeping in, this is not the cruise for you. To avoid the heat of the day and the crowds, we started this morning at 6:45.

Started in Cairo

Denise and I flew Turkish Airlines from Seville to Cairo, changing planes in Istanbul.1 We arrived in Cairo at about 4:00 and met the Uniworld representative at the airport. We were taken to the Ritz Carlton Nile for two nights. The staff at the Ritz Carlton worked to ready a room for us for VERY EARLY checkin and we napped from 6:00 to 14:00. We spent the rest of the afternoon by the pool, had an early dinner, and then caught up on our sleep for a busy first day.

While we visited the Salah El-Din Citadel2, the highlight of the day was visiting the much-anticipated Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM). While we spent several hours there, you really need several days to fully appreciate everything housed in this magnificent structure.

Two Things I Didn’t Know

On every trip, you learn things along the way. Often they are surprising “fun facts” … not anything earth-shattering, or things you necessarily need to know … but interesting nonetheless.3 Permit me to share two from this first day. First, I had no idea how close the pyramids are to Cairo. Now, to be fair, Cairo is a very large city. If you include the greater Cairo area, you are looking at a population of 22 million people over 2500+ km. It is the largest metropolitan area in Africa and among the largest in the world. It is the definition of “urban sprawl”.

The second is how long it took to build the Grand Egyptian Museum. It all started in 1992, when Egypt designated 117 acres near the Giza pyramid as its future home. In 2002, an international design competition was held. In 2003, an Irish firm, Heneghan Peng, was selected as the architect. The first estimate of projected cost was $500 million…though by the time construction began, it had increased to $1 billion. Egypt didn’t have that much spare change hanging around, so they looked for outside benefactors. Oddly enough, Japan came forward offering half the money needed. King Tutankhamen’s travels around the world helped fund the other half of the project.

Construction officially began in 2005. However, political instability, most notably the 2011 Arab Spring, delayed the project. Originally planned to open in 2013, construction did not resume until 2014. Construction continued, though slower than expected, but was again interrupted by Covid 19. A 2020 opening became a 2021, then a 2022, and so on.

In all, it took over 20 years for construction and over 30 years since first conceived. Of course, these delays also increased the budget, which our guide estimated at $2 billion. To be fair, GEM is more than a building or a big museum. With over 100,000 artifacts, it is a symbol of national identity and pride. On many occasions, Cairo stopped while huge, heavy, fragile, and priceless artifacts were moved through the city to the museum. On one such occasion, known as Pharaoh’s Golden Parade, the moving of 22 mummies, 5 km through central Cairo, became a live television event in the dead of night. Politically sensitive and technically complex … it is part of Egypt’s plan to boost tourism. Based upon our experience, I would say it was worth every cent.

Se tiveres oportunidade, recomendo-te que vás

Nanc

The Backstory

Let me start at the beginning, with a love story. You see, Madison was married and is the father of two children. He struggled throughout his marriage with the knowledge that he was gay. As a devout fundamentalist Christian, he tried to pray the gay away. But in early 2004, he and his wife agreed that he needed to live his authentic life. They separated and amicably divorced. Madison took the next 9 months finding himself…or as he said, “I had my whore period.”

But while his church may have turned its back on him, he did not turn his back on his faith. In online chat rooms, he looked for someone who shared his background and his values. He found John, a man who, like him, was active in the church and with church music. They met for dinner on 14 November 2005. There was chemistry…an instant spark. After 6 months of dating, and “passing the dog test” Madison moved in.

They married on 14 November 2012. In June 2022, the Supreme Court reversed precedent in Dobbs vs. Jackson Women’s Health Organization. In his concurring opinion, Justice Clarence Thomas explicitly suggested that the Supreme Court “should reconsider” other landmark rulings that rely on the same “substantive due process” legal doctrine. He explicitly mentioned Obergefell vs Hodges (2015), which legalized same-sex marriage. On that day, Madison and John started searching for another place to live. Over the next 6 months, they narrowed the countries from 10 to 4 and finally to one, Portugal. They sold their home, their cars, their stuff, while applying for a D7 Visa. They arrived in Portugal in January 2023.

Life was grand…until it wasn’t.

Fall 2023

Madison was cleaning their apartment as they were expecting guests later that day. He slipped and fell on a wet step. He thought he tweaked his back. But the pain persisted. He went for massages and to a physical therapist. The therapist suggested that he was getting worse, not better. He should have an X-ray.

On 10 November 2023, the pain was so bad that John drove Madison to the Emergency Room at Gambelas Hospital1 in Faro. They arrived at 9:30. He was examined and given medication for his pain. There was an X-ray and blood work. At 15:30, he was given the news. It was cancer. Additional testing would be required to determine whether it was prostate, bone, or a blood cancer. But it was definitely cancer. That day, one of their dogs, Thor, was also diagnosed with cancer.

Treatment in the Private System

Madison at age 61 has Allianz’s Premium Coverage. His insurance premium is 3800€/year. Over the next month, additional testing determined it was multiple myeloma.2 There was also the need to seek pre-authorization for the treatment. But chemotherapy began in late December 2023. This required two trips each week to Gambelas … 4 weeks on, 1 week off. On some days there were also appointments with his oncologist and nephrologist at the hospital. There are 5 markers the oncologist tracks, and all were showing improvement. But near the end of treatment, they plateaued. And then on 2 January 2024, he was admitted to the hospital due to kidney failure.

While Madison recovered and did not require long-term dialysis, the cancer came roaring back. He would begin the same chemotherapy treatment again. He would also undergo a round of radiation for the lesions on his spine, which were causing fractures and considerable pain.

The Public System

In January of this year, Madison met with his oncologist at Gambelas. It wasn’t good news. His cancer was no longer responding to the chemotherapy. The “private” system did not have other therapies to try. But Portugal’s public system offered hope. The IPO - Instituto Português de Oncologia de Lisboa Francisco Gentil is Portugal’s state-of-the-art cancer research and treatment facility. A physician at that facility was Portugal’s leading expert in multiple myeloma.

In February, Madison and John made the trip to Lisbon and met with Dr. Bernardo. There was another therapy he could offer. If it did not work, then Madison would be eligible for experimental drugs and/or a clinical trial. The ultimate goal is to reach remission so that stem cell transplant can proceed.

The Good & The Bad

Having now received care in both systems, Madison has a more comprehensive view of health care in Portugal. Let’s start with what works:

• Coordination is possible between the private and public systems. EG: There are certain treatments that the public system prescribes (e.g. radiation) that Madison can receive in Faro’s private radiation clinic rather than driving to IPO-Lisbon.

• The public system offers free transportation to Lisbon for those patients (like Madison) who are no longer able to drive. Madison’s physician simply writes a script for this service and the patient schedules pickup 48 hours in advance. (It should be noted this is not door to door service. Madison would likely travel with other patients in Algarve which can result in a very long day.)

• The physicians have been caring and Madison never feels rushed. His daughter, an oncology nurse in the States, often participates in his visits by phone.

• The care of all health professionals is supportive and kind.

The difficulties however cannot be ignored:

• The private and public systems don’t always talk to one another, and the patient must access multiple apps to check appointments, etc. On occasion, there have been scheduling conflicts. EG: There was a mix up between the private and public system on Madison’s first appointment in Lisbon. Madison was given the incorrect date, causing yet another drive to Lisbon. (To his credit, the Director of Gambelas wrote Madison a letter taking full responsibility for the mix up.)

• The medications that Madison is now on are highly regulated and must be picked up at the end of each visit in Lisbon. There are often 2-4 hour delays at the IPO pharmacy. Making a long day, even longer.

• It took some time to figure out that things like blood tests could be done in VRSA and delivered to IPO rather than going to IPO at 10:00 to draw blood in anticipation of a 13:30 doctor appointment. The public doctor needs to be regularly reminded that Madison has private insurance and would prefer to receive such services in Algarve.

• The public system is obviously stressed and to date has not taken advantage of current technology (such as telemedicine) to improve patient access.

Let’s Talk Money

Friday was Madison’s birthday. We spent some time together. He shared with me his involvement in a multiple myleloma Facebook Group. There he has interacted with Americans that have had to face selling their homes to continue treatment. One person said their care in the US was approaching $6,000.000. Last year, Madison paid a total of 7,000€ for his medical care. (This includes his insurance, all copays, a trip in an ambulance, blood transfusions, chemotherapy, radiation therapy, and all medications.)3

Até à próxima semana, fica bem,

Nanc

Lagging Behind

As you can see in the graph above, Portugal is lagging behind the targets the EU has established. The targets, the Waste Framework Directive, were adopted by the European Parliament in 2008. If you want to know more than I do, you can read it via the link above. An easier-to-read version can be found at my friends’ blog, The Cook and the Writer, here. But here’s the bottom line…targets were set for the reduction of waste materials that EU member countries must attempt to meet:

• By 2020, the percentage should be 50% by weight

• By 2025, 55%

• By 2030, 60%

• By 2035, 65%

As you can see in the chart above, Portugal has failed to achieve the 2020 target.

As someone living across the street from the new trash collection system in Portugal, I can see that we have a long way to go. Now, to be fair, things are improving slowly. I don’t send nearly as many emails today as I once did. In part, this is because the trash truck comes by every other day between 5:30 and 6:30.1 In part, it is because my Belgian neighbor and I monitor the area and place items in the correct chute once or twice a week. However, it seems, residents’ behavior is slowly changing. (I actually observed a merchant who used to just pile up empty boxes around the paper recycling container, actually cutting down his own boxes. PROGRESS!)

Plastic Bottles and Metal/Aluminum Cans

Starting 10 April, Portugal is introducing a new system. One that will cost money if you do not participate. The Volta symbol, above, is the official trademark of the new Deposit and Refund Systems (SDR in Portugal). If you see this symbol on a plastic bottle or can (up to 3 liters), a 10-cent deposit has been collected when you purchased this item. (Your receipt will also note this amount.) To recover the deposit, you are required to take the item to either:

• Automatic collection machines (”Máquinas Volta”) that are installed at supermarkets.

• Manual collection points in participating commercial establishments.

• Kiosks in some high-traffic areas.

How it Works

Since the program has not yet started, I had to use my Google machine to see how it is supposed to work. First, it is important to note that the machine needs to be able to read the symbol and barcode. So don’t crumple your cans or scrape off any part of the barcode. Also, the item should be empty.

When at the machine, tap the screen to start and then place each item, one by one, in the chute. Place items bar code first (usually with the bottom of the bottle facing forward). The machine should recognize the items, noting the number and the amount refunded. Having said that … don’t expect the machine to give you money. Instead, you can receive either a printed slip for checkout at that store, an app credit (if you are using the App), or you can donate the amount to a qualified charity.

Note: regarding the App…I checked both SDR Portugal and Volta Portugal as well as the Apple App Store. I could not find an App for this program. Perhaps the amount is recorded in your wallet or in the Supermarket app. As the system is not yet live, I can’t check. Only time will tell.

Size Matters

Finally, it should be noted that not all stores are required to participate. Supermarkets (i.e., stores over 400 square meters) will have Volta machines. Medium-sized supermarkets (50-400 square meters) may install smaller machines or require their employees to receive the returns and issue the refunds at the cash register. (I have not seen a machine at our local Corvo … I suspect the cashiers may become cranky.) Very small markets are exempt from the program.

Does Anyone Know

There seems to be a lot of misinformation or a lack of information regarding this system. For example, I asked my Portuguese neighbor yesterday. She had no idea what I was talking about. A waitress at our golf course complained that she needed to carry the original receipt from when she purchased the item to receive the refund. (This is incorrect…the barcode on the item is what the machine is reading). Another suggested that you had to return the item to the Volta machine, located at the store from which the original purchase was made. (This is also incorrect. You can return the item to any machine.)

There are FAQs on the SDR and Volta sites, but the big question remains. Will this system change Portuguese behavior? Only time will tell…

Até à próxima semana, beijinhos

Nanc

Zahara de la Sierra

Ronda, is just a 3.5-hour drive from VRSA. A friend had advised we have lunch in Zahara de la Sierra, a whitewashed village nestled high in the hills of Andalucia, surrounded by a reservoir. Via narrow, winding roads, we made our way to the top. Luckily, it was a Monday, the roads were nearly empty, and there were not many tourists walking around. After parking, we walked down to visit the castle and the Santa Maria de la Mesa Church as well as take in the panoramic views. When it was time to leave, we had difficulty determining the exit route as many signs contained a big line through a red circle. Nevertheless, we followed such a route after a Spanish couple walking their 2 golden retrievers pointed and said “esta bien por allà.”1 We drove down and decided halfway down to stop for lunch at a lovely outdoor restaurant overlooking the lake — Al Lago.

Ronda

We continued to Ronda, about an hour away, and found our apartment, just a 4-minute walk to the historic bridge. Ronda is a mountaintop city in Spain’s Malaga province that’s set dramatically above a deep gorge. This gorge (El Tajo) separates the city’s circa-15th-century new town from its old town, dating to Moorish rule. Puente Nuevo, a stone bridge spanning the gorge, offers amazing views.

Upon arrival, we chose to drive into the town, as the guidebooks recommend a route that lets you see the bridge from afar, providing a spectacular perspective. The town’s Plaza de Toros, a legendary 18th-century bullring, is also one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks. With winding narrow streets and walkways overlooking the gorge, it is a magical city. There were plenty of tourists, but it wasn’t overwhelming.

Cuevas de Pileta

We also visited the Cuevas de Pileta - prehistoric caves with paintings dating from 30,000 years ago, and just a half hour from Ronda. Before making the trip, I had called to reserve our spot, as groups are limited to no more than 10 people. We were advised to get there 10 minutes early and to wear comfortable walking shoes, as the walk up to the cave entrance is more than 100 uneven steps.

The 90-minute tour is fascinating, but be advised that it is very difficult to maneuver up 100 uneven steps. And when inside the cave, you are carrying a lantern while making your way through a slightly damp and slippery cave. Denise slipped and felt the effects for several days following our visit. We did see 30,000-year-old drawings of animals and stick figures and learned a great deal about the cave dwellers and their habits. (Note: photographs are not permitted inside the cave.) The guide also gave us a good geology lesson on stalagmites, etc. Despite the dicey terrain and Denise’s unfortunate slip, we were glad to have experienced such an extraordinary place that still allows tourists.

With great weather, our three-day trip was the perfect quick getaway.

Thanks, Toni!

Até logo, tchau

Nanc

Permit me to Vent

Several months ago, Denise and I planned a trip to Lagos for the last weekend of March. Denise’s sister has been living in VRSA this winter, and from time to time, we plan short trips for the four of us. (Denise, her sister, Onix, and I.) When we planned the trip, we didn’t know about the date for the rally.

Hoping to avoid a long bus ride to Lisbon by myself, I wandered over to the Lagos Expat Facebook Group to inquire about any planned activities in that area. The responses were less favorable than I imagined:

Trump is Putin’s Bitch

Why, you ask, am I being so petulant, snarky, ill-mannered? Why, when I typically write about our rosy life in Portugal?

Because I just can’t take it anymore. I don’t understand how any human being cannot see what has been so clearly demonstrated.

• The US launched 168 Tomahawk missiles at Iran during the first 100 hours of the conflict, significantly depleting its inventory. The assault on Iran is helping advance Russian interests as it prepares for a spring offensive against Ukraine.

• Russia has received €6 billion from selling its fossil fuels since the start of the US-Israel war with Iran. And to further assist the previously crumbling Russian economy, the US has loosened sanctions on other countries buying Russian oil and petroleum already loaded on vessels at sea.

• Meanwhile, Tehran has struck sensitive targets that experts say would not have been identified by Iran without specific intelligence. Something that Russia might be happy to provide.

I rest my case.

Call it Trump Derangement Syndrome, tell me to deal with the 75 million that voted for him, suggest this is US-only bullshit. There is a reason I care. There is a reason outgoing President Marcelo Rebelo de Sousa this week commented, “Diplomacy, for now, has lost its voice.” There is a reason Americans will protest in the US and around the world on March 28th. See you there…

Achei que devias saber, até logo,

Nanc

1. What holiday was celebrated yesterday?

2. Who is the woman in the photo below?

Diga

Okay, okay, I’ll tell you. Yesterday was International Women’s Day. First proposed by Clara Zetkin, a German Socialist, at the International Conference of Working Women in Copenhagen in 1910. She had been influenced by “National Woman’s Day” demonstrations in the US organized by the Socialist Party of America in 1909. March 8th was adopted after the 1918 “bread and peace” strike by Russian women in 1917. Ever quick to jump on the bandwagon, 😉, this date was formally adopted by the UN in 1977.

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In Portugal, we have the woman above. Her name is Doctor Carolina Beatriz Ângelo (1878-1911). Born to a liberal family, she completed her medical studies in 1902 as the sole woman in the Medical-Surgical School of Lisbon. She went on to become the first woman to be given surgical privileges.

Active in many feminist organizations, in 1909 she helped to found the Republican League of Portuguese Women, defending suffrage, the right to divorce, the education of children, equal rights, and a republican form of government. You may recall that 5 October is Republic Day here in Portugal, celebrating the first republic established in 1910. Its first electoral law recognized the right to vote for:

Cidadãos portugueses com mais de 21 anos, que soubessem ler e escrever e fossem chefes de família. (Portuguese citizens over 21 years old, who could read and write and were heads of household.)

As the masculine plural of words in Portuguese includes both the masculine and feminine, as she was over 21 and widowed with a minor child, Dr. Angelo applied to be added to the electoral census. Originally denied, she succeeded in court and thus cast the first vote by a woman in the country. Just 4 months after that vote, she passed away.

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We Have to Fix This

It only took until 1913 for the law in Portugal to be revised to reflect that only males who could read and write could vote. In 1931, the law was revised again. This time, it would include women, but only those who had completed secondary education. It was not until after 25 April 1974 that the Portuguese constitution was changed to reflect full voting rights for both men and women.

Refletindo sobre o passado e o presente,

Nanc

Shameless Plug: I’m pleased to report that people are actually purchasing my original artwork at ncwhitemanart.com. In recognition of Dr. Angelo and International Women’s Day, use the promotion code DRANGELO to receive a 10% discount on any of the paintings in my “women” collection during March 2026. And check out the latest in my “fragmented memories” series…

Editor’s Note: I am writing this at 10:00 on Monday, 2 March. Probably, like you, I have a heavy heart … unsure what to make of the world today. Yesterday, a friend from the US sent me a text asking how close we lived to the US military base in Portugal … and I texted a neighbor whose husband lives and works in Abu Dhabi, asking if he was alright. While I am certain the initial justification offered by the US President was filled with lies, and I am concerned that the US is taking yet another military action without Congressional approval, my primary concern is the loss of life in yet another attempt at regime change. (For Firstpost’s view on US efforts at regime change, watch this video. Firstpost is a news/opinion organization based in India, which is considered Right/Centered and Mostly Factual by Media Bias Fact Check.) Children, civilians, and military personnel have already been killed. And Ukrainian citizens and Russian military personnel continue to die in a war that it seems the US President has forgotten.

3 Years Ago

We last renewed our residency permits nearly 3 years ago. It was so simple. We accessed the SEF site, checked a box, entered our new address, and paid the fee. Of course, SEF disregarded our new address, sending the card to our old Cascais address instead. But after consulting our friends at Relocate to Portugal, we drove to the SEF office in Cascais, forced our way in, and found that our cards were at the bottom of a large cardboard box filled with returned mail.

The Latest & Greatest

Following up on my recent post, “AIMA Confused”, I enlisted the help of the experts at Relocate to Portugal. Below, please find their recommendations for some of the areas that seem to be tripping people up:

• Proving Your “Income”

  • For passive income, show the origin and destination accounts for at least the previous 2 months + always show the previous 3 Portuguese monthly bank statements and attach Social Security (SS) benefit letter/pension statement, etc, to the file. We have SS and pension funds deposited directly into our Portuguese account. While we can’t play the currency fluctuation game,1 it seems AIMA understands this type of regular deposit. If you are living on investments/savings, it is important to make regular transfers into your Portuguese account. A cover letter should be included explaining this arrangement, but limit the letter to not more than one page.

  • For independent workers, include contracts of services with a certified translation to Portuguese, green receipts for the previous 6-12 months (available on the tax portal), your Portuguese tax return for the previous year, and the inicio de atividade document. Also include your last 3 months of Portuguese bank statements.

• Proof of Accommodation

  • Homeowners should provide a signed declaration of accommodation stating you have been living at the property since X date, dated and signed. Property deed, caderneta predial urbana, and one utility bill.

  • If you are renting a property, you will need a Notarized declaration of accommodation2 from the landlord, a lease, the lease registration (imposto de selo 2), and a rent receipt for at least the previous month. If the post code on the lease is different from the mailing address, you may also want to include a utility bill in your name.

• The NISS Controversy

  • NISS is a requirement. Although people can now submit the renewal request without the NISS, RTP has seen people getting rejection letters because they did not have a NISS.

• Health Insurance

  • If you have private insurance, include information on the policy. If you do not have private insurance, be certain to include the utente document. You may choose to include both.

• Passport and Proving You Stayed Within the Absence Limit

  • The first draft of my post read: Your passport must be fully certified. At the notary, ask for ’termo de autenticação’ on the full passport, not just the ID page. However, last week, AIMA changed the wording on the passport field, and it no longer says certified passport copy; it now says copy of full passport (passaporte - impress integral). Over the past few days, RTP has had clients who were asked to go in for an appointment in the summer, even though they have received their renewal permits already. The emails from AIMA instruct the person to bring their passports with them and to ensure that they go to the appointment, as not going could result in the rejection of the renewal request. Of course, this is causing confusion as these people have already received their cards, but RTP advises them to go to these appointments anyway. As this is a recent development, RTP is still advising its clients to get the passport fully certified.

  • We should all respect the absence limits associated with our visas. AIMA has been asking for proof that the person was in Portugal by showing bank account activity, using your NIF to purchase goods, etc.

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As you complete the submission online, keep in mind the following:

• Each section only allows one file, and each file can only be up to 2MB. This may be tricky as the financial section could be 15+ pages.

• It is best to keep the browser in Portuguese. On occasion, errors occur on the platform due to the browser being in English.

• If a field does not apply to your situation (e.g., proof of school enrollment for a non-student), upload a document that says: does not apply to my situation.

When to Apply and When to Panic

AIMA is now renewing permits that expire by the end of April. (NB: my first draft read “March”.) You will want to keep checking the renewal portal to see when the notice changes to the following month. In addition, it should be noted that changes (address, passport number, etc.) should be noted on the contact form. Previously, this had to be done the month prior to your card expiring. However, last week, RTP was able to submit a change of passport number, a change of address, and insert the NISS number on the contact form for cards that expired this month. This was not possible before, but it seems like AIMA is now allowing people to submit the change in the month that the permit expires if they have not done so in the previous month. RTP’s advice remains to do this the month prior, if at all possible.

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If you are denied, don’t panic. Most of the people I know were denied for one reason or another last year. The two most common reasons are proof of financials and proof of accommodation. It may be that you are now pulling money from a different source than previously … or due to a reduced US dollar, your SS alone is no longer sufficient. It may be that you did not include a notarized declaration of accommodation from your landlord. Within the 10-business-day appeal window, add extra documents to address the issue. Typically, this does the trick.

Of course, we have all heard stories that concern us. A good friend who was denied and immediately responded with additional documents seems to have fallen into a black hole. While some people have used the “tacit approval” process, RTP has not yet had to explore that route. Instead, they have advised their clients to email AIMA to get an update or to go in person to the AIMA office to inquire about their application. While neither of these approaches is endorsed by AIMA, those who pursued this approach were approved shortly thereafter. But then again, forcing our way into the Cascais SEF office was also not “endorsed” … but it worked.

Obrigada Relocate to Portugal, Até à próxima vez,

Nanc

One Final Unrelated Note: Does anyone else have the sense that the rest of the world is more concerned about wealthy, powerful people in the Epstein files than Americans are?

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Tempestade Kristin

At the end of our block is a store that sells linens and wine. I agree this is an odd combination, but you should focus on what you are good at, and this husband and wife team do just that. (We have friends and relatives who buy their sheets in this store and then haul them back to the States…incredible quality at a great price.) Last week, when I passed Francisco at his store entrance, we had a typical exchange:

“Vizinho, tudo bem?” (Neighbor, everything good?), he asked.

“Mais chuva?” (More rain?), I replied.

“É janeiro,” (It’s January), he replied.

Yes, there is a lot of rain in Portugal in January, but this year it was different. Storm Kristin hit the Leira District of Portugal with record-breaking winds reaching 129mph. (As a former Florida resident, I know that would qualify as a strong Category 3 hurricane.) In this case, the storm was classified as a “bomb cyclone”. For more detailed information on the storm, read Jorge Branco’s post in Portugal Weekly, and for a first-hand account, read David Grenache’s post The Night Leiria Howled.

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The government has announced a number of relief efforts. But more needs to be done. Our local bombeiros collected food, water, personal hygiene products, etc., over the past few days. There will be another collection campaign this weekend. If you are living in Portugal, I encourage you to donate to one of the many organizations that are trying to help. If you can’t locate a local organization, the information in this post can help.

Sunday, Portugal Voted Again

Yesterday, 8 February, the good people of Portugal once more voted for their President. As I write this, I do not know the results, though the forecasting site I looked at had Seguro with a 99.96% chance of winning.🤞

But I wanted to share what I saw when I went to the ATM last week. A country that encourages you to vote. An election held on a day when the fewest number of people work. A country that automatically registers you to vote when you turn 18.❤️ This is what democracy looks like.

A Year of Art

You may recall me writing about my first art exhibition in the fall. Yes, I broke my wrist and required surgery, but I also sold 6 paintings as a result of that show. 6 out of 11 displayed … I was told this was a very good result. I did something else in November. I moved all my art supplies to a small 5-meter x 5-meter space next to the taxi office, just 1.5 blocks from our home.

When we arrived in town 4 years ago, the space housed vending machines (soda, candy, etc). About 1 year ago, they removed the vending machines and went about renovating the small space. It became a small white box with a beautiful, domed ceiling and a small sink and toilet tucked in the back. Someone opened a store selling the same items that had been in the vending machines, but instead staffed it full-time with a human being. (Said human being tended to be a young male with lots of friends who hung out of the doorway onto the sidewalk.) While navigating around the many young people and scooters on the sidewalk was an inconvenience, I was more perplexed by the business model. I was not surprised to see an “Arrenda” sign hanging on the glass door within 4 months.

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I consulted Francisco (see above) about who might own the place, and he directed me to the law office adjacent to the space.1 I love a small town. You can quickly find out anything by simply consulting a neighbor who has lived in the town his whole life. Long story short, the lawyer showed me the site and gave me a price. I consulted Denise. Yes, we could afford it. But was pursuing this “hobby” worth the expense?

She did not hesitate to say yes. I, on the other hand, agonized over the decision for two weeks.

As it turns out … it was a very good decision. I retreat to this space for 4-5 hours, 5 or 6 times a week. I am free to make a very big mess and, on occasion, even leave without cleaning it up.2 I have completed 2 commissions since moving in. I have also started a series of wacky people paintings for a local restaurant.3 To date, the owner has sold 6 of them.

Also, along the way, I have created a new website that I am unveiling today.4 As I am very frugal, I am using a free site called FourthWall.5 In addition to showcasing my original works6, FourthWall enables me to have my art printed on t-shirts, hats, pillows, etc.7 If you take time to read some of the descriptions, you will find my snarkier side comes out. But it is just for fun.

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Diga-me o que pensa, obrigada e fique bem,

Nanc

Updates: Seguro won and Portugal was hit by another storm after this post was written.

First Things First

As expected, we are going to a second round of voting for the President of Portugal. As I am not an expert on this subject, I would encourage you to read Politico for more analysis.

The good news is that while only 60% of the Portuguese voted, this was an improvement over the last 20 years. One hopes and expects, the majority of the non-Chega voters will coalesce around Seguro in next month’s vote.

A Couple of Friends

I asked a few friends who I knew had expired cards about their experience. Their experiences are a bit all over the place.

We have 2 friends whose cards expired in September 2024. They received emails in March 2025 telling them they had appointments scheduled at a local office in May on the same day. Following that appointment, one received her card 9 weeks later the other waited 4.5 months.1

Another friend’s card expired in November 2024. In July 2025, he got an email telling him he had an appointment in Lisbon in August. In early December, he got a denial, submitted the required document, and was approved within 2 weeks. He received his card 3 weeks later.

We have a South African friend here on a Golden Visa. She has worked diligently to learn the language, passed the exam, etc. While she would like a Portuguese passport,2 she realizes that it will take some time. At the same time, her residency card expired in April 2025. She is working through her attorney and now has an appointment for May 2026. Her impression is that Golden Visas were moved to the back of the pack.

We also have a group of friends whose cards expired between April and June of 2025. Many had similar experiences:

• They were informed they could apply online in August.

• They were assigned an appointment 2-4 weeks later at an office 2.75 hours away.

• They received denials 10-12 weeks later.

• They have submitted the additional paperwork requested and now wait.

• In one case, a friend was denied for 2 reasons. He has now cleared one hurdle, but additional documentation is being requested for the other item.

Consult the Expert

If there is a pattern above, I would rather not see it. So I consulted an expert. You may recall that Relocate to Portugal assisted us with our move to Portugal, and has assisted us when we are unsure of what to do. I interviewed Gail Agular, its founder, when NHR ended. When I asked Gail if she would be open to answering a few questions, she responded,

She also commented that:

• There have been changes made to both the Visa and renewal processes.

• Many were put in place in an effort to work through the backlog of 400,000 renewals by the end of 2025. The 20 Mission Structures (large offices with 40+ workers) that were set up for the renewal push were dismantled as of the end of 2025.

• While applicants in 2025 received more denials than in years past, the overwhelming majority were approved after the first appeal.

She also suggested I read this article, which discusses the 1.3 million residents of Spain awaiting renewal. Finally, she noted that one member of her staff is assigned full-time to assist RTP’s clients in working through the renewal process. I am very glad we used RTP and will be contacting her in May to begin gathering the required documents.

Serenity Now!

When I WhatsApped friends to gather information for this post, one levelheaded guy sent me more than just dates. He wrote that AIMA had inherited a broken system and a giant backlog. He commended the fact that they seemed to break the problem into two. One that tried to create a pathway for those who were relatively “current” (so as not to exacerbate the problem), which seemed to be working, and another task force (the Mission Structures Gail referenced above) for the older renewals.

I appreciate his response. Yes, it is frustrating. Yes, it may make traveling more difficult. But the good news is, Portugal does not have masked men in SWAT garb smashing people’s car windows and dragging them out of their cars. I am in awe of the people in Minnesota who are peacefully protesting in freezing temperatures. And to everyone still living in the US…stay safe.

Grato, afortunado…tchau

Nanc

The Basics

The current President, Marcelo Rebelo de Sousa, was a member of PSD but “suspended” his membership during the term of his presidency. Having served two 5-year terms, he is barred from running again. As the head of state, he has both ceremonial and political duties:

• He represents Portugal in international affairs, e.g., ratifying treaties, conducting international visits with other world leaders, etc.

• He appoints the Prime Minister (usually the Majority Leader) and other Ministers (given the PM’s guidance).

• He is the Commander-in-Chief of the military.

• He appoints the Attorney General.

• He can determine if referendums make it to the ballot.

• He promotes and can veto laws, or refer proposed laws to the Constitutional Court; and

• He can dissolve Parliament.

While I have, from time to time, taken note of the President’s comments on international affairs, to me his most significant actions over the past 5 years have been referring laws to the Constitutional Court2 and dissolving Parliament3.

Who’s Running and Who’s Going to Win

This year, 45 people toyed with the idea of running for President, 14 formalized their candidacy, and 11 received the required number of votes to appear on the ballot.4 Of these, five have consistently been among the frontrunners.

• Early on, it appeared Henrique Gouveia e Melo (a retired Admiral who led Portugal’s Covid-19 taskforce) was a clear frontrunner. However, more recently, he has fallen behind

• Socialist António José Seguro, who now has a slim lead in recent polling, Chega candidate Andre Ventura, and Cotrim Figueiredo, the Liberal Initiative candidate.

• Marques Mendes is the final “top tier” candidate supported by PSD.

To be elected, a candidate must receive 50% plus 1 vote. This is unlikely, and a second round of voting, of the two highest vote getters, will occur on 8 February. As I write this, there are 10 days until election day, so we don’t know who the final two candidates will be. One hopes that the focus over the final “formal” election period will be on issues rather than personal attacks and on how to find a way to work together to pass meaningful legislation.

What Are the Challenges

Obviously, I am not Portuguese. I live a fairly charmed life in Portugal … retired, owning a home, free from financial concerns, and benefitting from private healthcare. However, to me, it seems three of the important challenges facing Portugal are:

• Housing: In Lisbon, residential properties now average €5,995 per square metre, i.e. $648.82 per square. This is roughly comparable to LA home prices today. While I realize Lisbon is the capital, one must consider that Lisbon’s median net salary is €1,700/month5 (roughly equivalent to $1979/month). And while Lisbon is an outlier, it seems many young adults are forced to live with their parents.

• Salaries/Labor: While salaries have increased, Portugal’s wages are the lowest in Western Europe, and continued strikes do not seem to be having any impact on negotiations.

• Healthcare: Many consider the SNS “unsustainable.” Doctors’ wages have fallen further behind Western European standards, ERs are understaffed and sometimes closed, waiting lists6 are growing, and many are not assigned a GP/FP.7

One hopes that whoever is elected can work with Parliament to address these issues.

While researching this post, I found that Portuguese voter turnout is lower than European averages. As an American, watching an Administration make daily attacks on its democracy, I truly hope the Portuguese people will participate next Sunday…and on 8 February.

Finally, and just for fun, if you want to practice your Portuguese comprehension skills, take time to watch this tongue-in-cheek video (with or without English subtitles).

Desejo-lhe tudo de bom, Até à próxima vez,

Nanc

Friendly reminder: Part 2 of my interview with Portugal Junkies can be found here. In addition to our renovation story, at the 18-minute mark, we talk about what someone needs to think about as they consider a move overseas.

Portuguese Frustrations

The small bar on the corner of our street has a party every Christmas Eve. Starting at about 15:00, young and old gather on the street and start drinking beer. I understand from neighbors that this tradition goes back decades. This year, someone brought a horn to the party and occasionally played reveille. Charming … no, really, I think this holiday gathering is sweet. We don’t participate … but I love the holiday spirit it invokes. However, for the past 3 years3, I rise Christmas morning and see something like the photo above when I open our shutters. Cans litter the street, the window sills, doorways … I even found one can perched on the roof of our car. After walking Onix, I grab a large trash bag and begin the cleanup. This year, I made three trips to the metal recycling container. It is not that I mind the 30 minutes I spend on this new Christmas ritual.4 It’s just … like the folks that stack their trash next to the garbage cans … I just don’t get it.

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I also will never get used to a Portuguese person’s inability to deliver bad news. Let me provide a very recent example. About 10 days ago, we noticed that our underfloor heating was not working. I consulted the Error Log on the console and found "HP-Water Switch”. I immediately called Reinaldo (the man who had installed the system). He took my call. because he had forgotten that the number was mine. He explained that he had had his hip replaced 1 month ago. However, after asking me to check a few things, he said he would come over the next morning. I suggested that perhaps he could recommend someone else to effect the repair. “No, I am the only person who knows how the system works. I will come by in the morning.” When the next morning came, he did not arrive. I tried to text him… then call. No response … reminded of my number and did not pick up my call. I sent a very polite email. No response.5 After 5 days like this, I started looking for another company that could affect the repair. 6 Okay, he had his hip replaced … I get it. But just tell me you can’t help! Don’t lie to me!!!

I suspect you are sensing my frustration. I miss the directness of Americans.

Of course, this year we also saw the rise of the Far Right Nationalists (Chega) in Portugal. It is a significant crack in my idyllistic view of European civility. Yes, Portugal is not alone in this. But it is a symptom of deep, deep problems in the country. Wages are too low. Housing costs are too high. The government is ineffective. The whole country goes on strike. Our neighbors (he was born in Germany and she in Canada), of Pakistani descent, are harassed on the street. They opened a business in Portugal, thinking it would expedite her residency. But the AIMA representatives they have encountered are racist as well. I asked Mazzy if it might be better to go back to Germany. His response, “We would face the same prejudice in Germany … it would take 5 to 10 years.” Don’t tell me the Germans have forgotten…

Are We Going Back?

The quick answer is no. First, and most importantly, my wife would stay in Portugal.

And while, at times, I fail to "appreciate” certain aspects of the Portuguese culture, there are more that I now hold in my heart. The warm greetings and sincere inquiries about your well-being from Portuguese acquaintances. Their willingness to allow me to continue to struggle with their language, even though I have been here for 5 years. The fact that shop and restaurant owners trust you to pay the bill the next time you pass by if you failed to bring enough cash. The ability of children to play without adult supervision. The quality of the fresh produce … the air … the sun’s warmth on my skin, which feels somehow stronger here.

And when I think about it … where would I go? I could not go back to the US.7 At least in Portugal,

• When a party goes too far, they are called out for it.

• Our President is willing to say out loud what everyone is thinking … Trump is “a Russian asset".

• And our former PM, now EU Council President, responded strongly to the US’s newest national security strategy. I suspect the many Americans who didn’t vote in the last election don’t even know about this document.

Sorry

I’m sorry, this is not my typical upbeat end-of-the-year post. Of course, I know we are very fortunate. We live in a beautiful home and want for nothing. I have a partner who loves and supports me … trust me, I know living with me is not always easy. We continue to travel, exploring places we only once imagined.

This year, I had planned to write about the biggest change in my life, the courage I found around my art. I invested in a studio … am displaying my work … even selling my art. (And truthfully, once I complete one final edit on this post and grab breakfast, I will head to the studio to explore, to play. Perhaps I will actually even “make” something today.)

So despite the frustrations, on the whole, it was a good year. Courage does not come easily … but it seems it came to me this year.

Diga, Quais são as suas reflexões para 2025?

Nanc

In Case You Want to See Me: While my next Substack post won’t be published until 12 January, you can still get your Whiteman-fix. Portugal Junkies will be publishing a two-part interview with me on 2 January and 9 January. (I suspect the links to the Podcasts/YouTube videos won’t work till the date shown.) The interview focuses on our renovation project.

Our First Christmas

We arrived in Portugal on 31 December 2020…COVID-19 limited most of the Christmas decorations in 2020. Our first real Christmas in Portugal (2021) we were living in Cascais. That year, we also ventured to Óbidos … if you have not experienced their Christmas Village, I highly recommend it. Of course, we also took the train to Lisbon and enjoyed their Christmas lights.

2022

We enjoyed Lisbon so much that we returned with friends from the States the next year. It was rainy and damp…but it didn’t dim our holiday spirit. We also experienced our first Spanish Christmas when we visited Málaga. If you need a bit of holiday spirit, click on the link and watch the videos.

2023

In 2023, we traveled north, visiting Aveiro and Águeda. We went because we had read about the biggest Santa, but I was more captivated by the English sculptor Willard Wigan, who holds the record for creating the smallest micro-sculptures in the world. One can only marvel at the mind that envisions and the talent that creates a Santa inside the eye of a needle. We also took a Christmas river cruise, enabling us to experience Christmas markets in Austria and Germany.

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2024

On 6 December 2024, we boarded an Emirates flight from Lisbon to Hanoi, via Dubai. We spent the next 20 days visiting Vietnam and Cambodia. The first of 5 posts about the trip can be found here. When we returned to Lisbon, it was Christmas Day. We were unable to take a FlixBus or RedeExpress bus home, so after a much-needed nap, we met with friends in Lisbon to enjoy the lights.

This Year

This year, after a quick trip to Puglia, we returned to Vila Real de Santo António. Sadly, we missed Santa’s arrival in the city … though I am quite sure that children once more enjoyed snowfall in the praça. Of course, the Presépio Gigante is also drawing long lines on weekends, and Castro Marim brought in 12 tons of salt to create their nativity scene, and the work of a crochet artist was once more on display. Traditions run deep in Portugal.

Permit me to share a tradition our pickleball club began in 2023. That year, and each year since, we have made a cash donation to ReFood. ReFood collects donations from hotels, restaurants, schools, and supermarkets and then distributes the food to needy families. This year, in addition to our normal cash donation, we collected money for gifts for 20 children in VRSA. Some children asked if a doll or a puzzle might be possible. Others wanted colored pencils or paint sets. One little 4-year-old girl simply asked for food for her family on Christmas. Ana, Denise, and I spent a few afternoons buying and wrapping the gifts. This is a Christmas tradition we will surely repeat for years to come.

Boas festas,

Nanc

Editor’s Note: Next Monday, 29 December, will be my last weekly post. I expect it will be reflections on our first 5 years in Portugal. Based on the feedback from my recent reader survey, biweekly posts will begin on 12 January.

But First

Permit me to highlight two unrelated items before we get back to our story. First, I want to wish Chanukah Sameach to my Jewish readers who began celebrating the festival of light last evening.1

Second, I want to thank the hundreds of readers who took the time to answer my reader survey. I learned a few things from your responses:

• The majority of my readers live in Portugal (52% are expats living in Portugal).

• 20% are Americans, Canadians, or UK residents thinking of making the move.

• About 10% are in the process of making the move.

• The most requested topic was “Portugal Culture & Living Abroad”.

• Most people like the variety, with travel coming in second and money third. 44% even like it when I share political news and views.

• 73% of readers followed our renovation stories.

• 64% don’t mind or would prefer me going to twice a month.

So with that said, 29 December 2025 will be my last weekly post. I look forward to starting my twice-a-month posts starting 12 January 2026.2 And a special thanks to those who took the time to offer supportive comments, suggestions, and encouragement for my artwork.

Back to Our Story

Let me begin this installment with the food. OMG…we LOVE the food in Italy. We began each day around 9:00 with a fabulous breakfast at La Vigno. Most days, we would eat a big lunch around 14:00. When we returned to our room in the evening, we would enjoy a bottle of wine, cheese, and tarallini. Among the most memorable lunches were U Curdunn in Locorotondo, Osteria Origini3 in Martina Franca, and Osteria del Tempo Perso (which was recommended to us by friends) in Ostuni. We can highly recommend all of these restaurants.

While dining, we enjoyed a glass of fine, local rosé.4 Perhaps we were in more touristy spots … or perhaps we have become accustomed to Portuguese wine prices, but we were surprised to find the house wines averaged 7-8€ a glass!

The South

You may recall that we wanted to check out the two golf courses in Puglia. In the south, we found Acaya Golf Resort. 18-hole green fees range from €65-100, and various membership options are available. It is approximately a twenty-minute drive from Lecce (a university city of approximately 95,000 residents). This city would not qualify for the 7% tax program; however, there are many towns near Lecce with populations of less than 20,000 that might qualify. For example, you might want to consider Acaya, a village of less than 500 with fortified walls, a16th-century castle and grid-like streets.

After Lecce we drove north to Brindisi, an Adriatic Sea port town which also is the home of the Italian navy and the second airport in Puglia. While there we noted a number of ferries preparing to travel to Greece or the Balkans.

This city was heavily bombed during WWII, and has been rebuilt. Considerable investment has been made in the seafront which is full of bars and restaurants.

The North(Central)

We visited San Domenico Golf Course our first afternoon in Puglia. The club house is beautiful and the course is perfectly groomed. A bit more expensive than Acaya, daily fee rates range from €95-150 and memberships are available. When we return to Puglia, we look forwad to playing this course.

As we looked for a place within 30 minutes of the course, we visited several towns: Ostuni, Caravigno, Otranto, Fasano, Cisternino, Martina Franca, and Locorotondo. We first fell in love with Locorotondo … its quaint, narrow, pedestrian streets lined with small, white washed shops seemed to call to us. So much so that we returned on the last night to see their Christmas lights. While I am told it is a very popular spot with summer tourists, its full-time population is only 14,000. (So while I am NOT an expert on Italy’s new 7% tax incentive for retirees…this town does meet the first hurdle.)

We also enjoyed Martina Franca. With approximately 47,000 residents, it would not qualify for the tax program, but it had a wonderful feel. There was an art exhibition of “women and war” that spread across 3 municipal buildings in town. Townspeople had begun to decorate the white walls of their homes on narrow, pedestrian-only streets. We especially liked a street where swings hung from above with sayings printed on the bottom of the seats. For example:

At the beginning of the post, I promised a Christmas photo, and Substack is cautioning me about the length of this post, so I will end with a nighttime shot of the entryway shown at the top.

Boas festas, Não, não vamos sair de Portugal,

Nanc

Back in 2002

This was not our first trip to the “heel of the boot”. In 2002, we took a 10-day bike trip in Puglia with Ciclismo Classico. I chose that particular tour because it was a relatively small group (24 guests) and offered a relatively easy (flat) terrain. This would be our second bike trip on a tandem. Our first had been in Napa and Sonoma, a far hillier adventure.1 I have many fond memories of our bike trip in Puglia. The food! The wine! The food! The lemoncello after dinner! The food! The oil tasting experience! The food! The quaint Italian villages! The food! The families we passed walking from their farms to church on Sunday morning! The food! The interesting people on the tour! The food. The night we slept in a trullo (the singular of trulli)! Did I mention the food?

Not Just in Alberobello

The night we slept in a trullo, we were in Alberobello. But there are many, many trulli dotting the landscape south of Alberobello. In fact, given the glut of tourists to that town and what I suspect was their impact on its magical landscape, we avoided it completely. Instead, we stayed in a small B&B in Carovigno. We chose this location because it was relatively central to two golf courses2 we planned to check out in the area. (Not play … but check out in case we return.)

If you have not had the privilege of sleeping in a trullo, permit me to offer this observation. It is like sleeping in a tomb. (Okay, I have never slept in a tomb … I presume it is like that.) The origin of these structures dates back a thousand years, though most of the surviving homes were built in the 14th century. They were built using local stone and without mortar, and were round. The theory is that they were constructed this way to evade the collection of taxes. When collectors approached, the ceiling could be dismantled by removing the keystone from the top, making it appear abandoned. The walls are typically whitewashed, contrasting beautifully with the gray rooftops, which are often decorated with figures of spiritual or superstitious meaning.

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Most of the trulli you pass today are “squared off”. This practice began after King Ferdinand IV made Alberobello a Royal Town in 1797. The homes were made more permanent and more spacious by extending the exterior walls.

Getting There

If you wish to visit Puglia, you can choose between two airports: Bari and Brindisi. We chose Bari simply because there are convenient, direct flights between Sevilla and Bari nearly every day. Before paying for a carry-on and upgrading our seats, the tickets were only 65€ a piece. I realize many people complain about RyanAir. Yes, they start boarding by moving you from the gate area to the jetway, where you might wait for 15-20 minutes. And yes, you will most likely have to walk to the plane and climb the stairs to board. However, to date, every RyanAir flight we have taken has been on time! The days of luxury air travel are over (except in Business or First Class on Emirates), so being on time is all we ask.

Next week, I will share the towns we visited and lots and lots of photos. Till then, you can ponder the rumor that greeted us upon our return. Will the 7% tax incentive currently being offered in Italy (and the food3) be enough to make us pull up roots once again?

Até à próxima semana…

Nanc

Survey Says

I believe the last time I asked for reader feedback was June 2024. Since that time, our Subscriber (6529)/Follower (7589) family has more than doubled. I never imagined so many people would want to read what I write. Over the last 5 years, I have provided a post each and every week … at the beginning, even more frequently. A typical post takes about 5 hours to research, write, and edit. So I'm asking you to take 5 minutes out of your day to help me by answering a short, anonymous survey. Please keep in mind that posts continued every week despite a broken right elbow, two foot surgeries, cataract surgery, and now a casted left wrist.

No, really, please take time to click on this link to answer a few questions. (As I always do, I will share the results in future posts.) I am seriously thinking of changing the frequency with which I post to allow more time for my burgeoning art career. So it would help me to know what you think!

Por favor … Obrigada pela sua ajuda, Beijinhos

Nanc

PS: Today is a national holiday in Portugal (Restoration of Independence Day), which commemorates the 1640 restoration of Portuguese sovereignty after 60 years of Spanish rule. It is also known as the Day of Independence of the Kingdom of Portugal.

Also, in follow up to last week’s post our health insurance increased by nearly 12% for 2026. The new premium is 671€ per month, which covers both of us.

And just for fun … a video about the pickleball club Denise and I started in VRSA.